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Removing 4L80E and Transfer Case on 2001 2500HD

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Old 09-16-2015, 08:33 AM
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Default Removing 4L80E and Transfer Case on 2001 2500HD

I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 with floor shift transfer case. I just did a new oil pump to solve an oil pressure issue (fixed) but now the oil pan is leaking pretty good. Aside from this, I'm pretty confident the flexplate is cracked based off the noise it makes when it warms up.

With that being said, I plan to remove the transmission and transfer case, along with the front differential, and install a new oil pan gasket and flexplate/spacer.

MY QUESTION IS: will I need any special tools to do this job and is there anything I need to know going into this?

I'd like to keep the Trans and Transfer Case together if possible (believe I will need to remove torsion bar crossmember...) and want to just keep it all as simple as possible, in and out, problem solved. I know the exhaust will likely cause me issues as it is all original at 277k miles, so I'll be hitting those with PB Blaster the next couple of days. Anything else I should know before starting this, or will it be pretty straight forward? Thank in advance...
Old 09-17-2015, 10:48 PM
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trans is like 230-240 lbs, convertor 50 lbs transfer case another good 50-60....even on a lift I took the case off to lighten things up....Just be prepared, in the middle of this fix on my truck myself (just waiting for trans to get back from my buddy from like 3 weeks ago dropping it off.)
Old 09-17-2015, 11:05 PM
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What kind of noise does it make?
Old 09-17-2015, 11:10 PM
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Flexplate would make noise constantly not just after warm-up.... I had friend whose torque converter bolts came loose and everytime he turned his ac on it started making a knocking sound, almost sounded like a rod knock!!!
Old 09-18-2015, 09:04 AM
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It sounds almost exactly like a rod knock, it's a loud clack that resonates from directly under the truck but doesn't start until about 10 minutes of driving, then it goes away after you rev the engine a bit, or start driving. It only does it at a warm idle, never any other time. I've done a lot of digging and it seems to be the only likely thing. It is definitely not an exhaust leak or anything in the bottom end of the motor.

Also, I laid under the truck while it was doing it, held a screwdriver to the oil pan and listened, everything sounded good, the noise was definitely coming from the flexplate/torque converter area, that is for sure.

I have two floor jacks and my Father will be helping me so I'm just trying to get prepared for anything I might be unaware of. Have pulled trans' out of F-bodies with my eyes closed, but the truck is a bit unfamiliar for me so want to get my ducks in a row.

Appreciate all the feedback guys! Anybody else have thoughts?
Old 09-18-2015, 09:22 AM
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Might i suggest... 4l80 has an inspection plate/dust shield, correct?? Unbolt it and maybe torque converter bolts and you should be able to verify the flexplate being cracked.... Before you go pullin the trans and if it is youve already got that part done.....be careful with the screwdriver to the ear trick, can be dangerous... Mechanics sterhiscopes can be pucked up for around $15-20
Old 09-18-2015, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolftrk99
Might i suggest... 4l80 has an inspection plate/dust shield, correct?? Unbolt it and maybe torque converter bolts and you should be able to verify the flexplate being cracked.... Before you go pullin the trans and if it is youve already got that part done.....be careful with the screwdriver to the ear trick, can be dangerous... Mechanics sterhiscopes can be pucked up for around $15-20
Dust shield comes of easy on the 4l80e. Just a few bolts then you have a ton of access.

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Old 09-18-2015, 11:05 AM
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I didn't look closely when doing the oil pump, if there is an inspection plate then absolutely I will pull that first. I had it in my head there was non on this truck, but again didn't look closely.

If the bolts have backed out of the torque converter, would new bolts be recommended or can I just tighten them up and torque to spec (assuming flexplate is not cracked as I suspect).

Wlftrk99, I hear you what you're saying about the stethoscope, I am extremely confident the noise is coming from the bellhousing area and not the motor. FWIW, the noise changes a bit when I shift from Drive, to Neutral, to Reverse, and back and fourth. So I'm sure it's something in there.

Thank you again for the comments and suggestions everyone!
Old 09-18-2015, 11:09 AM
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If bolts were loose you need to make sure the holes in the flex plate aren't deformed (if all bolts were loose).

I remember RoadKill TV guys having their bolts back out because they forgot to use loctite.
Old 09-18-2015, 01:38 PM
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New bolts feom dealer are like $2-3 a piece, id suggest replacing em if theyre backed out


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