My 5.3 to 6.0 swap
#41
Its all about goals and budget. I could just say to ditch everything but the block, thow it in the machine shop with main studs, have it lone bored/ honed, cut/ hone the cylinders, jam some forged slugs hanging on some H beam rods, P/P oil pump, monster cam, Comp lifters, aftermarket pushrods, shaft mount Jesel rockers, double roller timing chain with torrington bearing, AFR heads, LSX intake, green top injectors, buy everything ARP has, blah, blah, blah... but how practical is that? Been there, done that.
#42
Im going to reuse the factory pistons and just do a light hone and new rings and rod bolts (ARP). **** I can still see the factory hone marks in the cylinders and there is no noticeable ridge at the top or bottom of each cylinder. I guess the guy at the junkyard wasn't lying when he said it only had 50k miles on it!
#45
So im getting ready to take the block, crank, pistons, etc. to the machine shop. ( I know, i'm taking forever to get the cash together). The guy at the machine shop said I should definatley have the rods bored out and put bigger bearings in even if they are not out of round because i'm replacing the bolts with the ARP's and he said that with the "cracked" rods they are very likely to be out of round when re-installing the rod caps. this sound right? The ARP bolts I bought are direct replacement bolts and not the other "interference" fit ones they sell so I don't see why I would HAVE to have them bored unless they are out of round.
He said to have them hone the cylinders, polish the crank, and spec all the bearings and such I will be looking at between $200 - $400 in labor, that sound about average? they are a specialty performance machine shop and have a very good reputation.
He said to have them hone the cylinders, polish the crank, and spec all the bearings and such I will be looking at between $200 - $400 in labor, that sound about average? they are a specialty performance machine shop and have a very good reputation.
#47
Yes, it sounds about right. You are supposed to have the rods resized if using different bolts as the clamping force changes and can distort the bearing side. Many get away with just replacing the bolts and calling it a day, but since its apart, Id have them use the ARP bolts and just resize the big end.
The rest is legit. What about cam bearings?
The rest is legit. What about cam bearings?
#48
Ok cool, just wanted to make sure. Im going to have them do the cam bearings there since I hear they need a line hone and i'm debating whether to just have them do the main and rod bearings too or just have them spec them and buy/install them myself.
#49
engine is in the local machine shop now.. When I dropped it off I mentioned hearing about needing a line-hone done on the cam bearings and he said he has done quite a few of these and never had to line hone the cam bearings. What do you guys think?
#50
Well I went ahead and had the machine shop resize the rod ends (they were slightly out of round after installing the ARP bolts), spec'd and ordered main and rod bearings, installed cam bearings, honed, ordered sealed power piston rings, etc. I should be picking it up this tuesday or so and then the reassembly begins FINALLY! I'm definatley getting anxious!


