More Header Questions :)
#1
Im sure its been asked before but I didnt find anything in search.
Really thinkin about getting Pacesetter LTs and ORY. Questinos are...does it need any welding...cutting or anyting wat so ever. If not...is it easy to install. And How much hp will i see. I kno itll sound pretty nice. And if anyone knows, will it be a 3' Collector? Cuz im sure ill have to get new exhaust made..new piping comming off the ypipe and wat not.
Since im so busy all the time. I was thinking of having someone put them in lol. Anyone how much people usually charge to install these headers and ory setups? Any more info about them would be great! My next mod will be a tune....I just cant decided on who...nelson...jesse....Nelson..jessee hehe.
Really thinkin about getting Pacesetter LTs and ORY. Questinos are...does it need any welding...cutting or anyting wat so ever. If not...is it easy to install. And How much hp will i see. I kno itll sound pretty nice. And if anyone knows, will it be a 3' Collector? Cuz im sure ill have to get new exhaust made..new piping comming off the ypipe and wat not.
Since im so busy all the time. I was thinking of having someone put them in lol. Anyone how much people usually charge to install these headers and ory setups? Any more info about them would be great! My next mod will be a tune....I just cant decided on who...nelson...jesse....Nelson..jessee hehe.
#2
i put a set of Pacesetter LT's on my '00 silverado 2wd last weekend, was easier than i expected.
driver's side goes in from the bottom, take the steering coupler loose from the rack so you can swing the shaft to the outside of the truck a couple inches...then itll go right into place. helps to have a buddy under the truck to position the header.
pass. side goes in from the top. i took the oil fill tube out, removed the bracket from the valve cover that holds the heater hoses, and removed the dipstick tube...one bolt off the head and itll pull right out...has an O-ring in the block so it takes a good pull to get it out. be careful not to bend it.
it's easier to get the header in place w/ the starter removed but not absolutely necessary...i left mine on.
just be careful not to slam the header into your coil packs when you're gettin it in place!!
it took me almost 3 hours to do the install, start to finish. next set i do will go a lot quicker now that i know what needs to be done. all the little stuff takes time...cutting the head pipes so they are out of the way, etc. my headpipe bolts wouldnt break loose from the manifold, even w/ my impact gun, so i broke out the plasma cutter and cut the headpipes off. blow torch, sawzall, etc. will work just as good.
i have a custom 2.5" true dual exhaust system so i did not get the Y pipe. since the headers come w/ slip fit collectors (yes they are 3") i got some straight 3" collectors from jegs and welded them to the headers, then welded some 3" - 2.5" collector reducers to my headpipes.
even w/ my stock tune i can feel a noticeable difference in power. its actually quieter at idle but WOT is louder.
if you have any mechanical ability at all, i'd suggest you save your money and put em on yourself. basic hand tools, a floor jack and a couple of jackstands and you're good to go. an air ratchet really helps it go faster.
i drove it to my buddy's exhaust shop the next morning to have everything welded up...sounded like a damn old bean truck w/ open headers, lol.
IMO, unless you've got a lot of compression and a big cam, open headers sounds like crap. besides, a GOOD exhaust system w/ mufflers will make the same power as open headers in most cases. CHIP
driver's side goes in from the bottom, take the steering coupler loose from the rack so you can swing the shaft to the outside of the truck a couple inches...then itll go right into place. helps to have a buddy under the truck to position the header.
pass. side goes in from the top. i took the oil fill tube out, removed the bracket from the valve cover that holds the heater hoses, and removed the dipstick tube...one bolt off the head and itll pull right out...has an O-ring in the block so it takes a good pull to get it out. be careful not to bend it.
it's easier to get the header in place w/ the starter removed but not absolutely necessary...i left mine on.
just be careful not to slam the header into your coil packs when you're gettin it in place!!
it took me almost 3 hours to do the install, start to finish. next set i do will go a lot quicker now that i know what needs to be done. all the little stuff takes time...cutting the head pipes so they are out of the way, etc. my headpipe bolts wouldnt break loose from the manifold, even w/ my impact gun, so i broke out the plasma cutter and cut the headpipes off. blow torch, sawzall, etc. will work just as good.
i have a custom 2.5" true dual exhaust system so i did not get the Y pipe. since the headers come w/ slip fit collectors (yes they are 3") i got some straight 3" collectors from jegs and welded them to the headers, then welded some 3" - 2.5" collector reducers to my headpipes.
even w/ my stock tune i can feel a noticeable difference in power. its actually quieter at idle but WOT is louder.
if you have any mechanical ability at all, i'd suggest you save your money and put em on yourself. basic hand tools, a floor jack and a couple of jackstands and you're good to go. an air ratchet really helps it go faster.
i drove it to my buddy's exhaust shop the next morning to have everything welded up...sounded like a damn old bean truck w/ open headers, lol.
IMO, unless you've got a lot of compression and a big cam, open headers sounds like crap. besides, a GOOD exhaust system w/ mufflers will make the same power as open headers in most cases. CHIP
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