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lq4 freshen up/build, need opinions for more power

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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 08:46 PM
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Default lq4 freshen up/build, need opinions for more power

so this weekend a lq4 out of a 2003 3/4 ton will be sitting in my spare bed room. from what i hear, had 60 psi of oil pressure and ran perfect!!

im gonna pull the heads off and see whar the cylinders look like, pull the pan and check a few bearings, etc.

this is going in my 1997 Z71, lowered, built 355 (9.7 to 1, 218/224 at .050, 112 lsa, ported heads etc) the rest of the drivetrain consist of a built 4l65e, yank SST3600 stall converter, and a 14 bolt with 4.11s in the rear.

basiclly lookin for a mean street motor that may see 100 shot. i dont know to much on these LS engines so correct me if im wrong please.

im thinkin...replace all the rods bolts with ARPs, shave the heads down a little to bump up the compression, biggest cam i can get away with and a valvetrain to support it, intake? full exhaust and dyno tune.

im looking for all opinions on this guys, any would be helpful
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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I wouldn't pull any of it apart. And I wouldn't worry about the rod bolts.

What kind of power do you want to make?
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 05:38 AM
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well its beem sitting outside, i just wanted to make sure theres no rust on the cylinder walls.
as far as power, id like to hit 12s with this truck, its wieghs 4,560 pounds without me in it
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Ah, well I guess I'd want to pull the heads. Just to see if there is any rust on the cylinder walls. Does it move freely? I don't know if the engine I bought sat outside at all. The guy I bought it from had it in his garage. It sat in mine for almost a year after I bought it. Started it, and been running it w/o any issues. Only thing we took off was the timing cover. Still running the stock oil pump. Still running the stock timing chain.

A 100 shot wouldn't get me worrying about the bottom end.

As far as getting into the 12s, you're probably going to get a ton of suggestions. Especially on cams.

I'd probably look into at least a TR228. I personally wouldn't be afraid to run a 230s cam. Probably something close to a Torquer 2, on a wide lsa. Then keep an eye out for a used set of heads. Run a tbss intake (look for a '06), and full exhaust.

Id run the stall you have.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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yea im hoping to use the stall/tranny i have already since its all built. but thanks for the advice, im gonna check it out some more this weekend
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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With that 3600 and 4.11's go with something like the Torquer V2, like zero2sixt mentioned. And if you're going to have the heads off, then grab a set of ported heads off one of the forums. Ls1tech.com has heads going up for sale everyday.

12's are too easy with a 6.0L...
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Start by just pulling the oil pan and windage tray to get a good look at the inside of the pan, crank, rods, bottom of pistons and cylinders. If it had water in it from sitting outside, it will be evident from that perspective. The crank and rods should look relatively clean obviously with no rust or dirt etc on them, nor should there be too much sludge or water in the pan. If it all looks good, you don't need to pull the heads. I'm not sure if that converter will work with an LS flexplate, as far as I know the bolt pattern is different, but something you need to check on. Cam, your preference, but with a converter like that, and relatively light weight with 4.10's, you can go on the larger side. 228r or a little bigger in my opinion, spin it to 6500 or so and you will be great. The tune is more important than any hard parts though, so be sure that's good.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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The lq4 i got had sat outside and got some water in it, messed up a few valves and one cylinder had a groove from where rust had collected on one of the rings. So its definitely worth pulling the heads and covers off to be safe, plus you can start with new gaskets.
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyc125
Start by just pulling the oil pan and windage tray to get a good look at the inside of the pan, crank, rods, bottom of pistons and cylinders. If it had water in it from sitting outside, it will be evident from that perspective. The crank and rods should look relatively clean obviously with no rust or dirt etc on them, nor should there be too much sludge or water in the pan. If it all looks good, you don't need to pull the heads. I'm not sure if that converter will work with an LS flexplate, as far as I know the bolt pattern is different, but something you need to check on. Cam, your preference, but with a converter like that, and relatively light weight with 4.10's, you can go on the larger side. 228r or a little bigger in my opinion, spin it to 6500 or so and you will be great. The tune is more important than any hard parts though, so be sure that's good.
thanks ill look into the converter as we speak
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