Team Paulie

iTrader: (1)

I put a new one on last night,three drop of red and the biggest 1/2 ratchet I had,got it as tight as I could with out being able to hold the engine from turning,wish I would have read this first and I would have just used blue,but oh well,drove it into work today,40 min and 36 miles one way,checked it when I got here and it was still tight,I'll check again at lunch and maybe do a full throttle pull on it,closed course of course.

Gordy M

iTrader: (2)

Replacing the crank bolt can be frustrating, quite often the engine will turn before you get the proper torque level, often you can't turn it a full 140 degrees before you move out of muscle, ARP bolts make sense because they have a lower torque requirement, etc. Since you are this far, make sure it is the last one you have to replace and pin the crank. There are several pin kits available and many times you can rent one from a shop or borrow a buddy's kit.

Team Paulie

iTrader: (1)

Done,did two full WOT pulls and it didn't move.

Untill this morning when I tried to go to work and it loosened up again!

I have the tool to install the balancer and have cranked it down as much as I can, anybody got any more ideas?

Gordy M

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Team Paulie;5018281]Done,did two full WOT pulls and it didn't move.

Untill this morning when I tried to go to work and it loosened up again!QUOTE]

That is why I suggested you pin the crank--helps stopping the bolt from coming loose.

Team Paulie

iTrader: (1)

I was able to get a pry bar in between the balancer and block,put the installer tool in and gave it a few good cranks,same thing with the bolt also a mix of green and red loctite,so far I have beat it up pretty good and it hasent moved.