Team Paulie

iTrader: (1)

What is the specs and how do I put it back in?
I know you use the old bolt to start it and then the new one,loctite it in?

Is it a TQ to yield bolt?

Got a new one for 4.00 bucks and the old one kept backing out even after tightening and angling it,have yet to go full throttle cause of it,guessing the threads should be clean and no grease on them too right?

2004 LQ4 6.0 stock crank balancer and bolt.

Specs anyone? or a how too?

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

240 lb with old bolt. Then 37 lb and +140 degrees with new bolt. These are the official GM specs. Yes it is TTY and has some kind of orange adhesion aid so it might back out if you try to reuse it.

I never got to 240 btw. My wrench doesn't even go that high. I just used a big @$$ pipe.

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

air gun.. never fails..

TDFDiesel

Until it does.

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

shitty air gun... My bolt is my original 5.3 bolt and has been in and out 20+ times and always used an air gun.. done 20+ cam swaps on other vehicles.. no problem..

Team Paulie

iTrader: (1)

240ft lbs!!jebus....Gotta wait till the weather calms down around here do I can do this again,should I put some red loctite on the threads?

SuperStepside

iTrader: (2)

Or get an arp crank bolt. Its just a regular bolt so you can re-use it. Dont have to worry about getting the torque angle right.

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

There's no need for thread lock if you use a new bolt. I've never had one back out and
I've been through probably 5 bolts because of cam and oil pump swaps.

dmelvin

iTrader: (8)

If you want to use loc-tite, I would not use red... It would take a long time to heat the bolt up enough to break the bond of red.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

I used an ARP bolt and just tightened it by hand as much as I can with an 18" breaker bar.