Well I put my clear UPD on today, it was a true PITA. It took me a while to do, like an hour and a half. I would get the tube on the TB then try puting the MAF on then the tube would come off the TB. finaly just tightened the tb clamp then the maf clamp, then got the lid on and tightened it, it was kind of hard to get seated correctly, but its screwed in now..... Also the tube isnt on the TB exactly straight looking, maybe its made like that???? but it had to be to get the lid set correctly. Now some questions. Could i drill holes in the rubber part for a tnt n20 kit later on? Or would I need to drill in the plastic? Will the fuel discolor or stick to the tube?

Does anyone have a 2000 HPP3 for the 5.3 they want to sell?

Also what tire pressure should I run on my stock size 235/65/16s?? They spin like crazy at 32lb.

Where could i find some centerline archer or lancer wheels on line? Im looking for 18/8 or 18/8+. What brand/size of tires should i run?

I am sorry there are alot of questions here, but It takes less time than making 2 dozen posts....
<img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Truck]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_truck.gif" />

 

N20 ? what kind, wet or dry?

HPPIII - check the classifieds here and there.

Tire pressure should be around 20 to 22 PSI

F150 Killer has a kick *** set of Boyd Genisis 6 wheels and tires for sale. 18x8 w/ 255/55/18 Nittos I think. He has a good price $1200. I would just leave those together and get some ET Streets for the track.Link to his post here.

 

i like the boyd's but don't have the money at this point in time. i however would also like to know if someone knows a place online that sells centerline archers in the above mentioned sizes.

 

If you think your UPD was hard to put on, wait until you want to take it off. <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />

 

trust me it came off and on several times

fas4.8 im thinking wet
dry wouldhave to be a hole drilled in my nice new lid...
heck i might go with the nosnozle kit if i ever find it online, but i doubt it since it costs more $$....
tnt wet set up like 99redhawk looks good, i just cant see where he placed the nozles....
22 pounds on the street????

 

the noszle system is $1300 bucks for ls1's not sure where you buy it from. kindof a waste of money if your not planning on spraying more than a 150shot. but it does look really cool <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

FWIW, I was going to get a Smoked clear system and I asked first about running wet fuel/nitrous through it. They told me that the clear and smoked systems are not designed to run fuel through them and will damage them. They said the dry was fine though. I told them, I wanted to run wet and they said to get a black or CF induction sytem. So, I got the carbon fiber.

I am thinking the clear would look really cool with a dry shot and you could always install the air filter gauge in the hole you drill in the lid,later on. Just a thought. I may still go dry on my truck and save some money.. I kinda like the ability to hide my system. Those wet kits are a lot harder to conceal.

 

xracer i never thought of that for the hole....
good idea.

1300 seems to be alot, but its safer right?

hopefully 99redhawk will chime in on how his n20 set up is....

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Brandon:
<strong>trust me it came off and on several times

fas4.8 im thinking wet
dry wouldhave to be a hole drilled in my nice new lid...
heck i might go with the nosnozle kit if i ever find it online, but i doubt it since it costs more $$....
tnt wet set up like 99redhawk looks good, i just cant see where he placed the nozles....
22 pounds on the street????</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Whoops, that 22lbs was for the strip. 22lbs or less that is. You could probably go down to 26 and be safe on the street. As far as a dry kit or a wet kit, you will have to drill a hole in either your tube or lid. dry = before MAF, wet = after.

 

yeah i was thinking the wet in the rubber cupling thing...... that way i wouldnt have to drill in the tube - its after the maf - it is what connects it to the tube
seems like it would work though.