How to tighten bolts?
Nov 18, 2006 | 09:21 AM
#1
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: League City, Texas
How to tighten bolts?
This thread talks about tightening bolts. Evidently you use a combination of torque first then add degrees of rotation? Do I have this right?
Can someone go step by step on the crankshaft balancer? Any suggestions for holding that crank so all that torque can be applied?
Thanks!
Originally Posted by TurboGibbs
They must be tq to yield according to the tq specs. Never looked into it before due to not reusing them anyway.
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed) 240 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (First Pass-Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes) 37 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Final Pass) 140 degrees
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts (Inner Bolts-First Pass in Sequence) 15 lb ft
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts (Inner Bolts-Final Pass in Sequence) 80 degrees
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Side Bolts 18 lb ft
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Studs (Outer Studs-First Pass in Sequence) 15 lb ft
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Studs (Outer Studs-Final Pass in Sequence) 53 degrees
Crankshaft Oil Deflector Nuts 18 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed) 240 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (First Pass-Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes) 37 lb ft
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Final Pass) 140 degrees
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts (Inner Bolts-First Pass in Sequence) 15 lb ft
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts (Inner Bolts-Final Pass in Sequence) 80 degrees
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Side Bolts 18 lb ft
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Studs (Outer Studs-First Pass in Sequence) 15 lb ft
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Studs (Outer Studs-Final Pass in Sequence) 53 degrees
Crankshaft Oil Deflector Nuts 18 lb ft
Thanks!
Nov 18, 2006 | 02:59 PM
#2
I always use a long prybar pushed through the balancer to hold it. Another way is to get someone else to get underneath and use a large screwdriver/prybar to wedge between the flywheel teeth and the tranny housing throuth an inspection hole maybe?
The tq process may be confusing but the reason for the degrees of rotation is because you are actually stretching the bolt to its max tensile strength. I just make a good educated guess on the degrees. If you weight 160 you will have issues torquing this bolt by yourself without a cheater.
1- Use old bolt to torque to 240 ft-lbs to ensure balancer fully installed.
2- Install new bolt and tq to 37 ft-lbs.
3- Torque bolt to it's Yeild point by rotating it 140 degrees
The tq process may be confusing but the reason for the degrees of rotation is because you are actually stretching the bolt to its max tensile strength. I just make a good educated guess on the degrees. If you weight 160 you will have issues torquing this bolt by yourself without a cheater.
1- Use old bolt to torque to 240 ft-lbs to ensure balancer fully installed.
2- Install new bolt and tq to 37 ft-lbs.
3- Torque bolt to it's Yeild point by rotating it 140 degrees
Nov 19, 2006 | 02:18 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Yogi Bear
ARE you any relation to Joe Gibbs? Have you seen any good books on how to assemble a GEN III, like a 6.0?
Thanks again for your help!
Yogi
Thanks again for your help!
Yogi
I'm just a SBC/BBC hot rodder turned late model a year and a half ago. Before then I had never even seen the inside of a gen3 engine. I never read anything I just learned most of what I needed to know on here and on ls1tech. I mostly just dove in and figured it out as I went.
I have heard this book is good. Check amazon.com
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