HELP!! What is my truck doing!! (Video)
#1
This has started happening more frequently. Not sure if it has any correlation to it getting warmer (mid 50s) here. I can tell when I am going to have the problem because when I click the unlock button on my FOB none of the lights go on to let me know it unlocked (it hasn't unlocked either). If I click it a couple of times it will then click on.
Then, when I get in to start it, this is what happens (video)? It will start up a couple of times, but die right away. Even if I feather the gas it will die once I stop giving it gas. After it starts up and dies for about the third time(give or take), when I start it up it, it runs like there was never a problem?
Seems too fast to be the starter, but I have no clue. I decided to take the video to show the dealer because I have had it in twice now to try and fix it but they couldn't replicate it.
Here's the video, you might want to right click and save as, it's 9M (only 55 sec).
Truck Video
Thanks guys, sorry for the book.
Andrew
Then, when I get in to start it, this is what happens (video)? It will start up a couple of times, but die right away. Even if I feather the gas it will die once I stop giving it gas. After it starts up and dies for about the third time(give or take), when I start it up it, it runs like there was never a problem?
Seems too fast to be the starter, but I have no clue. I decided to take the video to show the dealer because I have had it in twice now to try and fix it but they couldn't replicate it.
Here's the video, you might want to right click and save as, it's 9M (only 55 sec).
Truck Video
Thanks guys, sorry for the book.
Andrew
#2
Strange ... to say the least. Maybe something with fuel? Does it do it if the truck hasn't been locked too or just after it's been unlocked with the FOB?
I know the security thing will cut fuel, but that should cut fuel period, and not let it run that little bit.
I know the security thing will cut fuel, but that should cut fuel period, and not let it run that little bit.
#6
Watch your battery voltage when you turn the key to on, before cranking. It should go up to 12-14 volts. Once started, it should still be 12-14 volts or higher. I would check out the battery post first, mine did this once, and it was a loose battery cable connection. In your case, the corroding cable might be the problem, or the battery.
When you finally get it started, and rev it for a few, and dies, then it will start up and run with no problem? By starting it and reving, your charging your battery enough to work. But once it sits, it won't start again.
Hope that made sense.
When you finally get it started, and rev it for a few, and dies, then it will start up and run with no problem? By starting it and reving, your charging your battery enough to work. But once it sits, it won't start again.
Hope that made sense.
#7
I pulled out the battery today and looked at the post. Looks bed, not horrible, but still bad. It looks like the loop connector on the stock GM harness is corroding pretty good. When I pry back that stock rubber sheath you can see the sides have corroded and cracked off
I am wondering if I have to cut off tha rubber boot to see if the power cable is actually corroded too? I don't know how to get the current post out of the part that is connected to the + wire (didn't take that boot all the way off once I saw that connector was corroding).
ok, just went to check out the battery wire, I popped open the red box in this picture (http://james.jaguar.net/agreif/fans/fans39-done3.JPG) which is fed the + wire from the battery, and there is no corrosion on that wire (that far down, about 12" worth of wire). So is it safe to assume it hasn't gone all the way down the wire? Basically I want to be able to fix it, but don't want to be cutting off that boot (something I may have to do anyway if I want to change that post, right?) if they are going to have to do that on Tuesday when I take it in? I don't want to get the "you modified the elec system, we aren't touching it" speech handed to me.
I am wondering if I have to cut off tha rubber boot to see if the power cable is actually corroded too? I don't know how to get the current post out of the part that is connected to the + wire (didn't take that boot all the way off once I saw that connector was corroding).
ok, just went to check out the battery wire, I popped open the red box in this picture (http://james.jaguar.net/agreif/fans/fans39-done3.JPG) which is fed the + wire from the battery, and there is no corrosion on that wire (that far down, about 12" worth of wire). So is it safe to assume it hasn't gone all the way down the wire? Basically I want to be able to fix it, but don't want to be cutting off that boot (something I may have to do anyway if I want to change that post, right?) if they are going to have to do that on Tuesday when I take it in? I don't want to get the "you modified the elec system, we aren't touching it" speech handed to me.
Trending Topics
#9
Well, as of now 92 miles, but when I called about it I was within 80 and had brought it in earlier that week and got teh "could not duplicate." NOt a big deal, wasn't happening every time, now it's getting worse. Pulling the post just confirmed what I thought, corrosion eating this away. That's why I took the video and got a clean shot of the ODO when I did it. I called the service manager and explained it, she told me since it was documented before it won't be a problem under warranty as she coudn't get me in when I called last Thurday (when I was still in warranty).
#10
The red rubber thing around the battery terminal will slip right off. Take the terminal off the battery, and just slide the red rubber off the end of the terminal. If you have to replace it, you can get a new terminal from almost any parts stoer or Wal-Mart for about 2 bucks. Cut off as little wire as you HAVE to, and strip enough to get it in the strap part of the new battery terminal.



