Tuned finally
Tuned idle - YouTube

 

Man that sounds good! Did you get the oil pressure issue worked out?

 

Sounds awesome!

 

yes, I pumped the side port full again and fired up up minus valve cover to see if it was making it up. It was so then I went thru 3 new sending unite until one worked. Now on start up I have 50psi and 40psi when its warm and it jumps to 70psi when the go pedal hit the floor matte.

 

Sounds awesome bud! I'm glad you're finally going to get to enjoy it. I know it took a little longer than anticipated but being able to do things yourself makes it all the more worthwhile in the end.

 

THANK YOU for all the help. Also Thank you wife for me taking ya'll time together. Shoot me a call or text, we need to get the families together and go do something.

 

walk around,

Idle walk around - YouTube

 

swaping out the lifters and push rods, Just checking on a tick. Found nothing that stood out. went with BTR SLD lifters. they seem to be really well built.

 

Lq4 (iron) block punched out.030 with Flat tops pistons no reliefs
Lq4 stock rods
317 heads milled .010 & valve job
decked milled .018
.040 gaskets
223/231 .610"/.617" 110+2 cam
Brian tooly double springs and tooled hardware.
LS2 Chain
GM LS Rocker Arms
BTR SLD lifters
LS2 Trays
head studs
BTR 7.373" Pushrods (length can be changed)
flex fuel injectors
circle D 3000 stall
4L80E
4.88 gears





another question, what plugs and plug wires would be best for this thing? i'm running TR55 (.045 gap) and stock wires now. any info would be great,

 

Hello, here is what I learned in my search. The motor Im building is very similar to yours.
NGK recommends dropping one heat range for each 75-100 horsepower. Have you put your truck on a dyno yet? One heat range differerence between otherwise identical spark plugs means the ability to remove another 70C-100C (that's degrees Centigrade) from the combustion chamber. That's what heat range ratings are all about, and with the NGK convention, the lower number means it's a hotter plug. The longer the nose of the spark plug, the hotter it runs in the combustion chamber and the less heat it removes, making it more prone to detonation and pre-ignition. The spark plug's secondary role is as a heat sink, to remove heat from the combustion chamber, so the heat range is critical. A plug that is a range or two too cold won't cause engine damage, but a hotter than correct plug can cause damage.
For a better plug, you might want to take a look at the Denso Iridiums. A bit pricey, but they last long. The Denso Iridium works great in just about any gas motor, so I was told thanks to their .4mm firing tip (world's smallest) allowing for an extremely low required voltage to fire, and a large, intense spark kernal. Have you replaced your coils yet or are you still using your old ones? I called SDPC and ordered the exact same coils that came with my truck from the factory... I looked at the cheaper ones but feared codes and run-ability issues. I looked at MSD but for the price and very little difference in performance I chose to buy a can of red spray paint. As far as gap, NGK calls for a gap for that 5.4 of .054, but most guys close them up to about .038-.040. With the Denso Iridium, It was recommended to run them at .042-.045.. For the wires, I stayed with the stock ones. Unless you just want pretty or something different stock wires will work just as good. Just my 2 cents worth.