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Evaporative purge cannister

Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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Default Evaporative purge cannister

For those who have removed this system, How did you go about?

Looking at swapping to a smoothed truck intake this weekend and eliminating the complete evaporative purge system at the same time. When doing this the only thing to consider is the vent for the gas tank. Feedback on not removing will not be entertained by me, it is coming out.

Thinking I have two options to vent tank. Either a vented gas cap or leave the factory cap and just vent the tank.

In the first two pics #1 is the vent tube, This tube has a tee, one is a vent to tank and the other looks to be a vent at the fuel pump housing.

Couple question on which way to go about. The rear end vent routes up to the fuel filler cap. Would it be safe to tie the #1 tube in diagram to the line for the rear end vent or just route a new tube from #1 to gas filler location? Can I plug what I think this is a vent at fuel pump housing and just vent tank?

Not sure if the gas tank is suppose to maintain a certain amount of pressure, if so going that route may be a problem?

The other option is plug the #1 tube in diagram and just use a vented gas cap. But what kind of gas cap to use? Do vented gas cap work the same as a radiator cap to where they maintain a certain amount of pressure? What has me thinking this is the code you get when gas cap isn't tight.

Am I just over thinking this? Vehicle is the '99 in sig.
Attached Thumbnails Evaporative purge cannister-021011tc03-650.jpg   Evaporative purge cannister-030210tc03-623.jpg   Evaporative purge cannister-mnlg0lcv_njnn2mlzyc8awg.jpg   Evaporative purge cannister-vacuum-canister.png  
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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Just wonderin. Whats the point in removing this? Any power gains ?
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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 08:41 PM
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Just a non necessity in my book. Mostly to remove a little weight and just simplify and cleanup.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 02:29 PM
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for the time being I cut the line right before the flex hose that leaves the frame rail to tunnel then motor and just put a rearend type vent there.

Just a thought but thinking after removing the canister and vent solenoid next installing a small inline carbon water filter to the tank vents with a rearend vent cap and securing that to the filler neck hose. Should help with any fuel odor.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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I think you are going to need a bigger vent. There is a member here having a hard time with filling the tank at the gas station since his vent is so small. Atomic ran a 5/8" hose from the tank to a filter up by the fill to vent his.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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thanks for the input, cant find much on the subject when searching. Its obviously buried in build threads.

Thought it would be a good idea to start a thread where the pros would chime in for any future searches for newbs.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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Removed the #1 line in the first pic in original post from the canister and slipped a 3/8 rubber hose on it. Rubber hose routed up to filler neck with a glass filter and vent cap.

After reading this thread https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ations-530099/ I thought I may have a problem with the way it was so first thing I did was go to the gas station and filled her up from a 1/2 tank with no problem reported.

Plan is to remove the filter from the glass housing and fill it with some activated carbon from the pet store to see if helps with fuel vapor odor. If that doesn't work out thinking of making a canister out of clear pvc with caps that I can tap 1/2 thread into to make a higher flow one.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 11:55 AM
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In for this one. I just started my removal of my evap system. I am going to try venting with the 5/8's hose like atomic did off the top of the fuel hat. I think I am going to cap off the other two vents on my tank.
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:12 PM
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I am also interested in this cause I will be running a holley mid rise soon and wanna delete all the Evap stuff on the intake
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 03:57 AM
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I removed all the EVAP stuff a while ago. I simply ran vent lines from the existing ports up to where water can't enter. Tuned out the codes and it's good to go, although the PCM will never complete the test for the EVAP if it's needed for inspection.
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