I have had a set for five months,and a Nelson's tuned pcm just worried about useing the old manifold bolts,I like to do things once.

 

I used the stock bolts with mine along with the stock multi layer gaskets. Not a leak or issue since Oct.

 

Is it your daily driver?

 

Just an update, I installed these months and months ago, no issues, no rust after driving on heavily salted roads this winter. currently have the y ran to a dumped 18" Sweet Thunder. Mellow on Idle but meannn on wot.

 

FWIW, mine is my daily driver and I also used my stock bolts and stock gaskets. They had over 100,000 miles on them when I swapped the headers on, and they've been 100% leak and problem-free since November of 2009 when I installed them and started this thread...

 

another DD here with more heat cycles per day than i'd like. running stock bolts/gaskets (122k mi on them now) since Jan with no problems.

i can't really attest to road salt or anything... i live in FL

 

that stinks! I got mine when the price on them started rising and I payed around $350 to my door last spring.

 

yes it is. I have put about 10-11K on it since Oct. 2010

 

dam the price went way up :o mine were $290 shipped and that was only 2 months ago still loving the sound =] i also used stock bolts but went with the aftermarket gaskets, i will be switching to the old gaskets tho the new ones suck

 

Just installed these on my '02 yukon 4x4, 5.3. No problems installing what so ever, other than finding the previous owner had left some broken manifold bolts in the head for me! The only issue I have after installation is that the 'safety' nut on the steering shaft bolt needs to be trimed slightly as it catches slightly on the driver side header 'hump'. I bought the OBX branded headers of ebay for $531 shipped. No complaints at all. Be for warned with the OBX headers there are 3 O2 bungs on the driver side and 3 on the passenger side. So you will need to get 2 18mm oil drain plugs to seal these. Also you will need a couple 10mm x 1.00 (I need to double check that they were 10mm) nuts for the studs that connect to the rest of your exhaust. I chose not to reuse mine as they were difficult to get enough torque on the extensions needed, so just cut them off. As stated, it is much easier to cut the factory Y pipe to remove it. I cut mine in the same locations as the new y-pipe is pieced together, wanted to be able to get the factory stuff back on, just in case (god forbid) that the header kit didnt work out as planned. I tackled the majority of this install myself, but had some help when it came to slidding the new headers up into place from below. As far as clearances go, yes on my truck even it is tight near the yoke on the front drive shaft, but theres enough room for it to turn. Also as said, the steering shaft 'safety' bolt catches slightly and also the mods to the driver side plug wires. All in all, I think these are well worth the money, especially seeing as how my 'cats' were on their way out, so for the same amount of money I was able to pick up some performance and get rid of them. I havent tuned the truck yet, but it def has a deeper rumble to the idle, but nothing obnoxious and has alot more pick up (cleaner) around 3000rpm on up. First startup had some smoke from finger prints and coating in and on the pipes. Gone after a mile or two once warmed up. I had what sounded to be a slight exhaust leak, but discovered I didnt have a couple bolts on the passenger side header tightened down completely, so Im hoping thats what it was. Also I reused stock gaskets and bolts, wanted to use new head studs, but didnt have any luck finding an OTC set. Just applied PB Blaster to them for a few days before removing and none broke, actually came out very easily once the torque was released.