Ebay/OBX style header install w/plenty of PICS (LONG, but detailed)
04-19-2010, 07:33 AM
#104
11 Second Truck Club
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apparently so or there isn't a consistent design in the headers. my Z is push button 4wd if that makes any difference. i got them from dnamotoring.
04-19-2010, 09:55 AM
#105
You can see all the clearances I have way back on Page 1 of this thread.
That really sucks that you had to make yours fit. Mine literally had so much clearance that for me to get from under the truck, to under the hood to bolt them on, I had to wedge them in to keep them from falling out the bottom. The closest spot on mine is to the front driveshaft, which is still a half inch or better of clearance.
04-19-2010, 10:19 AM
#106
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On my 2wd 2005 the passenger side rattles on the frame rail at very low speeds (under 20mph). I may have to use the hammer manipulation technique. Other then that I have had no issues since the install.
04-20-2010, 09:22 AM
#108
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Well I received my headers from the brown truck about 3pm yesterday. With a 2 hour dinner break included I finished the install at about 2am last nite.
The first thing I noticed was that a header bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side of the cab was already snapped off, how weird is that? I also have no idea how someone is supposed to get the plug wire off of the #8 cylinder since its basically pointed right at the firewall.
Like most people have said in here, this was the easiest header install I have ever done. The only one that compared was a set of long tubes I helped a friend install on a 90's model dodge ram. Ive also done a ls1 and an lt1 firebird, and still have nightmares about the time I helped with a long tubes install on a fox body.
My only significant notes are that fitment is great, both headers went in from the bottom on the first try. I have a 2wd and I didn't know that the tubular cross braces would have to be removed, they might not have to be but I did just have extra room. the o2 sensor bungs are welded in excellent places on the new Y pipe and no part of the wiring harness had to be extended, thank goodness. The passenger side header is touching the frame rail, but It didn't affect the fitment of the flange to the head. I guess I will see if it makes a racket. Hopefully it wont be near as bad as the drivers side floor pan rattle I initially got from the Hooker headers on my Trans Am.
My old lady helped with the install, the extra pair of hands definitely helped. i had to work with jack stands in a gravel driveway and it wasn't that warm here. I haven't felt this sore since military training.
my only gripe is the one i listed before the headers even got here, they dropped the price on them $40 3 days after i bought mine. they also have a restocking fee on returns, and I asked if they would honor a price match and they replied saying all sales are final.
These are the best deal on headers i have ever seen. i did touch up the welds inside the primaries with my die grinder, but for a $300 set of stainless headers who wouldn't expect to do 30 minutes of prep work on them. If you haven't read nother word in this post and you are on the fence on these, take my advice and BUY THESE IF YOU NEED A SET OF LONG TUBES FOR YOUR TRUCK.
The first thing I noticed was that a header bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side of the cab was already snapped off, how weird is that? I also have no idea how someone is supposed to get the plug wire off of the #8 cylinder since its basically pointed right at the firewall.
Like most people have said in here, this was the easiest header install I have ever done. The only one that compared was a set of long tubes I helped a friend install on a 90's model dodge ram. Ive also done a ls1 and an lt1 firebird, and still have nightmares about the time I helped with a long tubes install on a fox body.
My only significant notes are that fitment is great, both headers went in from the bottom on the first try. I have a 2wd and I didn't know that the tubular cross braces would have to be removed, they might not have to be but I did just have extra room. the o2 sensor bungs are welded in excellent places on the new Y pipe and no part of the wiring harness had to be extended, thank goodness. The passenger side header is touching the frame rail, but It didn't affect the fitment of the flange to the head. I guess I will see if it makes a racket. Hopefully it wont be near as bad as the drivers side floor pan rattle I initially got from the Hooker headers on my Trans Am.
My old lady helped with the install, the extra pair of hands definitely helped. i had to work with jack stands in a gravel driveway and it wasn't that warm here. I haven't felt this sore since military training.
my only gripe is the one i listed before the headers even got here, they dropped the price on them $40 3 days after i bought mine. they also have a restocking fee on returns, and I asked if they would honor a price match and they replied saying all sales are final.
These are the best deal on headers i have ever seen. i did touch up the welds inside the primaries with my die grinder, but for a $300 set of stainless headers who wouldn't expect to do 30 minutes of prep work on them. If you haven't read nother word in this post and you are on the fence on these, take my advice and BUY THESE IF YOU NEED A SET OF LONG TUBES FOR YOUR TRUCK.
