When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm about ready to pull the cam but can't determine the dot-to-dot relationship of the cam and crank. If the picture shows up, you can see the dimple in the cam gear (don't know if that's the one I'm looking for) and there's a dot on the end of the crank, but they don't line up.
OK, thanks guys. I'm in the process of getting the pump off (you can see I've taken it apart) but am having a heckuva time getting the oil pan dropped. Thanks for the answers!
The stock timing sets on these motors are so loose it's pitiful. I will never swap a cam and put a stock timing set back on. A lot of people do though. To each their own.
Run a degree wheel too. I had a cam ground incorrectly that would have cost an engine if i didnt take 30 min to check.
I agree, although if it was that close it was a big cam. A degree wheel is the way to go although with a non adjustable timing set you aren't accomplishing much other then finding out it's not right.
Dont pull the pump off, not worth fighting with that oring on the tube. You can see the crank dot behind it. If its way off you can move it a whole chain link but obviously a adjustable timing set gives you finer adjustments.
The stock timing sets on these motors are so loose it's pitiful. I will never swap a cam and put a stock timing set back on. A lot of people do though. To each their own.
Not to hijack, but what timing set would you recommend? Would probably help OP and myself