Doing a cam swap on a Silverado LQ9
#1
I have done a few cam swaps on my 2001 Camaro SS and help a few others, so I know how to do them in an F-Body.
What's all involved with swapping cams in a truck? Any right-ups for doing cam swaps in the these trucks?
I have a 2006 Silverado Crew Cab LQ9 2WD and I want to swap cams within the next year.
Since the trucks have more room in front of the engine, do you have to remove the A/C condensor?
For a mild cam, should I upgrade the pushrods or will the stockers work since it won't be reving past 6k?
Bill
What's all involved with swapping cams in a truck? Any right-ups for doing cam swaps in the these trucks?
I have a 2006 Silverado Crew Cab LQ9 2WD and I want to swap cams within the next year.
Since the trucks have more room in front of the engine, do you have to remove the A/C condensor?
For a mild cam, should I upgrade the pushrods or will the stockers work since it won't be reving past 6k?
Bill
#2
If you've done an F-body, then the truck will be a piece of cake. You don't even have to touch the ac condensor. Some guys have even left the radiator in and just lifted it up and strapped it out of the way, but I prefer to remove it since it's easy enough.
I recommend installing hardened pushrods and valvesprings with any cam swap personally. If you're going with a mild cam (less than .570 lift with a lazy lobe) you can get away with using Z06/LS6 springs that are less than $60 for the set from Scoggin Dickey (sponsor >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I recommend installing hardened pushrods and valvesprings with any cam swap personally. If you're going with a mild cam (less than .570 lift with a lazy lobe) you can get away with using Z06/LS6 springs that are less than $60 for the set from Scoggin Dickey (sponsor >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
#4
Billiumss,
Budhays3 is right on the money. Pull the shroud, radiator, water pump (you can leave the fan attached), remove the rocker arms, etc. . . . you know the rest. I'd definitely buy some hardened rods and some improved beehive springs (LS6/Comp) and you're on your way. If you have more than 60,000 miles on the engine, you might want to replace the timing set for safety and because wear retards the valve timing.
All my best,
Steve
Budhays3 is right on the money. Pull the shroud, radiator, water pump (you can leave the fan attached), remove the rocker arms, etc. . . . you know the rest. I'd definitely buy some hardened rods and some improved beehive springs (LS6/Comp) and you're on your way. If you have more than 60,000 miles on the engine, you might want to replace the timing set for safety and because wear retards the valve timing.
All my best,
Steve
#5
Originally Posted by Billiumss
Cool!!!
The cam specs I'm thinking about is:
220 224 .530 .534 116lsa (should be perfect for LS6 springs)
I'm not looking for max power by any means, just a nice 20HP bump.
The cam specs I'm thinking about is:
220 224 .530 .534 116lsa (should be perfect for LS6 springs)
I'm not looking for max power by any means, just a nice 20HP bump.
#6
I have about 1,600 miles on it now, still brand new. I'm not going to do a swap right away, just doing some research.
So LS6 valve springs are good up to .570 lift? If they are, how long will they last?
The reason for going with lower lift is so I don't have to worry about changing springs ever again. If the LS6 springs will last for many, many years and 80,000+ miles then maybe I will go with a higher lift cam, maybe .551 lift.
So LS6 valve springs are good up to .570 lift? If they are, how long will they last?
The reason for going with lower lift is so I don't have to worry about changing springs ever again. If the LS6 springs will last for many, many years and 80,000+ miles then maybe I will go with a higher lift cam, maybe .551 lift.
#7
Originally Posted by Billiumss
I have about 1,600 miles on it now, still brand new. I'm not going to do a swap right away, just doing some research.
So LS6 valve springs are good up to .570 lift? If they are, how long will they last?
The reason for going with lower lift is so I don't have to worry about changing springs ever again. If the LS6 springs will last for many, many years and 80,000+ miles then maybe I will go with a higher lift cam, maybe .551 lift.
So LS6 valve springs are good up to .570 lift? If they are, how long will they last?
The reason for going with lower lift is so I don't have to worry about changing springs ever again. If the LS6 springs will last for many, many years and 80,000+ miles then maybe I will go with a higher lift cam, maybe .551 lift.
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#8
The LS6 spings should be able handle .551 lift for a good long time as long as the lobe ramp rate isn't too agressive...that's when you start needing aftermarket springs with more seat pressure, etc. Even then, spring life is a concern.
#9
Originally Posted by budhayes3
The LS6 spings should be able handle .551 lift for a good long time as long as the lobe ramp rate isn't too agressive...that's when you start needing aftermarket springs with more seat pressure, etc. Even then, spring life is a concern.
#10
Originally Posted by gonzo 6.0
In your opinion would you consider the GT2-3 cam aggresive ramped?
I'm thinking that Comp XER lobes and Thunder Racing grinds (which I believe are Comp lobes) would be more on the aggressive side, while the Lingenfelter and Crane/Vinci grinds have what's considered a more "lazy" lobe. SDPC recommends the LS6 springs for their Crane 220/224 .551/.551 114 I believe.


