cam install questions
#1
1. Will my truck run on nelson 91 tune untill he sends me new tune for this cam 212/218 558/563 115lsa tr rods,918 springs.was not going to do it this weekend do to injury but can not wait.need to drive for a week till allen get's me one.
2.Is there any way to remove crank bolt with out removing starter,like air gun on bolt. ok,bad idea,?
3.has anyone used the T handle type spring compressor like auto zone sells.
4.if i loctite crank bolt can I reuse crank bolt.
Thanks much for any input,if anyone is still home instead of camping.
2.Is there any way to remove crank bolt with out removing starter,like air gun on bolt. ok,bad idea,?
3.has anyone used the T handle type spring compressor like auto zone sells.
4.if i loctite crank bolt can I reuse crank bolt.
Thanks much for any input,if anyone is still home instead of camping.
#2
1. I added a 210/218 531 114, and it ran fine on my original tune. You should be fine for a week.
2. I wedged a prybar in between the spokes of the pulley and just used a large cheater pipe to break it loose and had no troubles. But I probably wouldnt recommend that particular idea. I only did it as an excuse to add an UD pulley if I was to break it.
3. I used the larry tool, found on the ls1tech- tools section. I'm sure the T-handle would probably work, but might be a little tricky on the back cylinders?
4. You should go ahead and replace the crank bolt because it is "tq to yield" and only a few bucks.
2. I wedged a prybar in between the spokes of the pulley and just used a large cheater pipe to break it loose and had no troubles. But I probably wouldnt recommend that particular idea. I only did it as an excuse to add an UD pulley if I was to break it.
3. I used the larry tool, found on the ls1tech- tools section. I'm sure the T-handle would probably work, but might be a little tricky on the back cylinders?
4. You should go ahead and replace the crank bolt because it is "tq to yield" and only a few bucks.
#4
your cam should run fine on stock tune. my tr220 ran good with stock tune and stall. just have to two foot it at stop lights though. same here, impact worked fine for me...
#5
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Somewhere between Auburn, AL and Columbus, GA
might have to two foot the gas/brake some to keep it from dying when coming to a stop. It can be a pain in the *** sometimes. Most recommend getting a new crank bolt every time.
#6
Mine will run on the stock tune, but its a milder cam
I used the prybar wedged between the spokes of the pully, but I know its not right
I used the t handle spring compressor after I brok two bolts in the head with the bent bar type. It sucked
I know I shouldn't have, but I also reused the stock bolt. No problems yet, but its something else I wouldn't recomend
I used the prybar wedged between the spokes of the pully, but I know its not right
I used the t handle spring compressor after I brok two bolts in the head with the bent bar type. It sucked
I know I shouldn't have, but I also reused the stock bolt. No problems yet, but its something else I wouldn't recomend
#7
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#8
I tried something a little different to get my crank bolt out...I picked up a big nylon strap wrench and wrapped it around the crank pulley, wedged it against the frame, then man-handled the crank bolt with a big SnapOn breaker bar. Went with a new crank bolt too...it's cheap enough and there's probably one on the shelf at the local dealer parts dept.
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