Like not allowing long tube headers among all the other stupid laws.

Are there really no C.A.R.B. approved LT's? Is that because they scavange so well that emmisions are compromised?

I dont have to smog for 5 years. What if i run some until then? Do i have to cut piping and move cats, etc? Make re-installing the OEM tubing difficult?

Do you think it'd make much difference in my setup?
Who has 'em for 4x4?

Just a thought....

 

One of the reasons isn't so far-fetched.

Long tube headers have the oxygen sensor in one of the primaries because the collectors are too far downstream for the wiring to reach. Set up like this the other three cylinder can be passing some unburt fuel without the PCM much caring about it.
Also, the length puts the cats farther back which affects cold-start light-up.

 

Take a look at the DOUG'S headers(Not doug thorley's) They are a mid length headers with air & egr and are CARB approved. I bought mine from Summit Racing part # DOU-D3353-1. This is a part # for a 2 wd truck I am pretty sure they make'em for a 4x4 too. I know these are not a long tube but it is close.

P.S. so who was the closest in your Dyno numbers? How do you like the TT3000? I still have not installed any of my parts so I was just curious.

Danny

 

I have TOG midlength headers. Not long tubes, but not shirties either. I would go with Pacesetter headers and there offroad y-pipe. That way you could take off your system as a whole and re-install at at smog time.

I would think 25-30hp is possible with that set up.

 

James I dont know what lt headers you are talking about but on my dynatechs I got an O2 sensor bung welded in right after the collector and the pacesetters are in teh primary also.

 

Hooker Super Comps are like that.

In my opinion Long Tube headers could pass the sniffer. It's the visual out here that sucks.

I have TOGs too. I've been thinking about putting some equal length long tubes on though. I know they're a hassle but my exaust system is flanged and the cat pipes are interchangable to any header however I want to make them. I have a lot less to choose from than you guys do in the way of long-tube manufactures.

As long as this subject of swappability has been touched upon, I am also tossing around the idea of a FI Bigbock engine "module" where the harness is all there, attached. Just unplug, unhook, drain and swap back the stock 350 for smog. It's only every two years.

 

Considering how EASY the swap is, (took me half an hour to get a manifold off and a new manifold back on) why not just buy headers/ypipe and swap it come emissions check time?

I cant imagine headers taking more than 2-3 hours start to beer break to finish

 

With short belt and straight thru exhaust with long tubes there is one other member here that has 340hp/340tq. This is why i'm considering tossing the JBA's. If they only give me 12 more of each over the shorties!
The TT3000 rocks! Doesn't feel too much different from stock and lets me put much better power to the wheels on take off.

Exactly! So which LT's are going to be the best for my 4x4, and swap easily?
I dont want to have to cut pipe and then worry when smog testing time comes!

 

How much better are LT's over TOG's mid tubes and how much better are mid tubes over shorties? If TOG's are close then i'd go that way and stay 'legal'.

 

Get the new pacesetter 4wd lts and the ORY its bolt in no cutting and easily removed.