superbee

ok remember, total timing is even more critical than your initial idle timing. you need to set your TOTAL timing. Idk what the edelbrocks combustion chambers like but 32 total would probably be a good start.

ZO6Ted

I would imagine 32-34 is probably all those decent heads need. Advance should be all in by 3000 or less even. Read the plugs and jet accordingly. Also forget what carb you have but secondaries not coming in soon enough or throttle not opening all the way will kill it. Check compression also and compare cylinders. Cold enough plugs and good wires it should freaking rock! A good carb can make a hell of a difference!

stealthperf

I think you're on the right track with the timing... I had almost the same exact set up in a 78 nova rally years ago. 355, 292 cam, 700 double pumper, ported heads and manifold, 2800 stall. The timing turned it from a turd to a rocket... I also ran a 200 shot after I got it dialed in with 4.10 gears.

94silverado

Ok so I'm gonna get called a dumbass but how can I for sure know what my total timing is when my pointer stops @ 10 after tdc ?

94silverado

Damn,answered my own question again-sorry guys
I have the advanced timing light so turn the dial to 34 & run up to 3500 & adjust timing on pointer/balancer @ 0 then hook back up vac advance
Told you'll my memory isn't like it used to be & I find myself overthinking things & get the memory block plus adhd don't help,got a vacuum gauge to adjust carb after I do the timing in a few,gonna hit that in a few once it warms a little more

94silverado

Ok so I adjusted my timing @ 35 degrees with all the advance in @ 3200,adjusted my carb using vacuum as close as I could get with cam,adjusted the secondaries a 1/4 turn & made a hit,huge difference,I don't think my timing was off to bad before I started,as I went back in to my manual for my Demon carb & re-read about the secondaries it made a lot more sense where my problem was,my next step will be to swap the Rearend out to a limited slip with 373's,this truck came from the factory with 342's & a 4.3,I bought the motor that is in it now ( 76 truck 350 ) it was already bored 30 over & had about 20,000 on the rebuild,I tore it down & took it to the machine shop to have it cleaned & everything checked,we turned the crank cause it had a couple places that were worn,everything in/on the motor is new except the crank & rods,this was my first true full rebuild,I've learned a lot & still want to learn all I can so I can do another one later on but I think I'll do a big block next time,I may eventually swap in a turbo 350 as well when this tranny pukes,ALSO what is you'lls opinions on a entry level nitrous kit ? I've read a lot but as with anything else it's a 50/50 yea or nay,if so in your opinion is there one manufacturer that stands out ?
Thanks to everyone who helped me get this lined out I appreciate it !!!!

94silverado

I've changed all the hoses but radiator with braided & next step will be to hide all the wires by routing them under ( beside the oil pan ) & run them behind the brackets up from the bottom,maybe later I'll change it all out to billet but for now I'll have to keep the stock

James B.

iTrader: (1)

If it continues to be a problem I'd yank the intake and inspect the cam lobes. You mentioned that you ran it without a thermostat, meaning it was broken-in that way. Can't do that to a flat tappet cam. Heat cycling is what hardens the metals and without hardening it doesn't take much to flatten out the lobes. If the cam has to be changed do the lifters too - flat tappet lifters and cams become a non-interchangeable set once broken in together.

94silverado

It was plenty hot when I broke the cam in,it was in August & here in Ky that means hot & humid,temp during the breakin was 195 & that was with big *** shop fan blowing through the radiator

Bluecollar Hotrods

iTrader: (18)

How tall are your tires? Are you sure that a change to 3.73s will be enough? Might want to consider 3.90s or 4.10s.