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AC system rebuild, 2001 suburban

Old Oct 12, 2014 | 05:53 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 01silvy
The OEM part is usually the best. Can you find a AC delco replacement compressor?
have you had good experiences with AC Delco comps in the past? I'm willing to try it and spend any amount of $$$. Denso was OE on this truck.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 08:08 AM
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This was the compressor I bought when I rebuilt the tahoe's ac system.

Amazon.com: Denso 471-0316 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive Amazon.com: Denso 471-0316 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive

It's had two full Texas summers on it now and still going strong.

One thing I make sure to do is get the front blowing cold before kick on the rear and when I first kick on the rear the front is set to 1. Once its all going cold, adjust to your liking.

Also, how are flushing the lines? I used this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...estid=20056945 along with this
Amazon.com: Mastercool (91046-A) Silver A/C System Flush Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: Mastercool (91046-A) Silver A/C System Flush Kit: Automotive

Another thing. In the rear AC, there is a small screened filter that needs to be cleaned.

Last edited by akcooper9; Oct 13, 2014 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by akcooper9
This was the compressor I bought when I rebuilt the tahoe's ac system.

Amazon.com: Denso 471-0316 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive

It's had two full Texas summers on it now and still going strong.

One thing I make sure to do is get the front blowing cold before kick on the rear and when I first kick on the rear the front is set to 1. Once its all going cold, adjust to your liking.

Also, how are flushing the lines? I used this: A/C Pro / 1 qt. flush and clean - Not for Hybrid vehicles with electrical driven compressors (CQS-11) | A/C System Cleaner | AutoZone.com along with this Amazon.com: Mastercool (91046-A) Silver A/C System Flush Kit: Automotive

Another thing. In the rear AC, there is a small screened filter that needs to be cleaned.
On my first go-around, I used something very similar to flush the lines, and lots of compressed air to dry the lines.

My main concern is knowing how to put how much oil in what places? If I take it to a shop, can they put in the right amount of freon pre-mixed with the oil? Not sure how that works.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
My main concern is knowing how to put how much oil in what places? If I take it to a shop, can they put in the right amount of freon pre-mixed with the oil? Not sure how that works.
All I did was drain the compressor before install and fill with the 11oz required. Then took it to the shop for a vac and charge.

Did you clean the screen filter in the rear ac? I missed it the first time I went to have my ac charged and I wasnt getting 'cold cold' air. So the shop evac'd the AC and I went home and swapped out the rear expansion valve and thats when I found the screen filter. I cleaned that as well.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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Default 2001 suburban a/c

I just did the same thing except for condenser. It's August and 90 degrees in NC. I am getting same 56-58 at vent. I did find that removing entire Rear a/c cartridge after disconnecting coolant and a/c lines allowed for ease of disassembly and change out of expansion valve.

Originally Posted by RezinTexas
I bought the R134a Freon at Walmart. They had 12oz bottles for about $7 each. Next, to ensure I got the proper amount of Freon charge (48oz specification), I got a food scale and measured exactly how much from each bottle I put into the system. Of the 5 bottles I bought, 3 were at 12oz, and two were at 10oz of net fluid.

I'm confident that the scale is accurate within +/- 1oz. I tested it with various lead fishing weights in the sports/outdoor section at Walmart.



Here are the gauge pressures after I got 48oz of fluid into the system. This was at around 90-F with high humidity.



The lowest temperature at the vents was a steady 58-F. Considering how hot and humid the weather is right now, I think that is the best I can do. The system now feels like a new OEM system and the performance is excellent. I am extremely pleased with the results.



Thanks for reading, hopefully this helps some of you out there.


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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jcp3sons
I did find that removing entire Rear a/c cartridge after disconnecting coolant and a/c lines allowed for ease of disassembly and change out of expansion valve.
Just an FYI, one can replace the rear expansion valve with out removing the whole assembly but its no where near as easy!

RT did you ever solve your AC problems?
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 01:24 PM
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Gonna take a look at this later...
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 04:06 PM
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I'm calling it "good" at this point. This gas hog sits most all the time until I need to pull camper or haul a posse. I need to get it out and drive it around on a hot day to assess. But it was humid and hot last weekend when we finished and it all seemed good. Very happy with performance to this point.
Originally Posted by Jcp3sons
I just did the same thing except for condenser. It's August and 90 degrees in NC. I am getting same 56-58 at vent. I did find that removing entire Rear a/c cartridge after disconnecting coolant and a/c lines allowed for ease of disassembly and change out of expansion valve.
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 06:48 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by akcooper9

RT did you ever solve your AC problems?
Hey, sorry for the very late reply. No, I have not fixed the AC system yet. The truck has been sitting in storage for almost 2 years while I'm on assignment in Norway.

I plan to gut the system "again" when I get back to Houston. Hopefully sometime in late 2017 or early 2018.

Kind regards
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