6.0 swap questions.......
Nov 7, 2005 | 12:04 AM
#21
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, North Mexico
Originally Posted by 99Silver5.3
I did pushrods. Why the **** are you so stupid? Put your glasses on and read my post. None of this **** would have trailed on if you would have read my entire post. Its right up there, post 10 in little black letters for you to read.
Ports on the heads will not sit higher if you mill them, im sorry.
Ports on the heads will not sit higher if you mill them, im sorry.
Post 7 says
"shave the heads .030 and slap them back on, "
Post 9 says
"also, your valvetrain geometry wont be as good and your intake wont line up as well after shaving .30 off"
Then you come along in 10 and say
"Thats wrong sir!!! I did 30 off my heads!!!!!! And I used shorter rods. Done deal."
Then I say in post 11
"uhh... how is your valvetrain geometry NOT off?
you corrected it with shorter pushrods (which also constitutes more than "slapping them back on")."
Post 22 should be you saying sorry
The INTAKE PORTS ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WILL SIT HIGHER, as i said in post 17
Nov 7, 2005 | 08:37 AM
#22
I shaved .020 off my 5.3 heads and using stock pushrods ALL valvetrain noise went away, and there were no intake problems. You don't have problems with intake fitment to between .05-.07. .03 wont be noticed.
Youre right about the pistons, but the only difference (I thought) is that the LQ4 has dished pistons and a LQ9 has flat tops? Also I think the LQ4 connecting rods are plenty strong for anyone concerned with using stock parts and buying a used motor. If you're making enough power that they are too weak, I'd imagine you would build a forged ahort block anyway. Then the pistons and rods wouldnt matter cause you wouldnt be using them anyway.
Youre right about the pistons, but the only difference (I thought) is that the LQ4 has dished pistons and a LQ9 has flat tops? Also I think the LQ4 connecting rods are plenty strong for anyone concerned with using stock parts and buying a used motor. If you're making enough power that they are too weak, I'd imagine you would build a forged ahort block anyway. Then the pistons and rods wouldnt matter cause you wouldnt be using them anyway.
Nov 7, 2005 | 09:13 AM
#23
Originally Posted by white1
Get a LQ4 for $1000 shave the heads .030 and slap them back on, and you're right where a LQ9 is for $500-$1000 less
I paid $1100 for a complete 300mi pull out LQ4,thats been many years and miles ago.There have been a couple of low mile LQ9 rotating assemblys sell here for around $100.I have 2 6.0 longblocks sitting in my shop.Both are out of 05s.I have yet to decied what I am going to do with them.If I end up buying a 06 CC vortexmax then I will want to sell them.Likely early spring I will know.
Hey cudaman.Didnt you have a hemi and hang at the DWT forum?
Nov 7, 2005 | 09:19 AM
#24
http://car-part.com/
Looks like the LQ9 prices have can down $1500-$1800 should buy a nice one
look for "N" vin code
Looks like the LQ9 prices have can down $1500-$1800 should buy a nice one
look for "N" vin code
Nov 7, 2005 | 06:42 PM
#25
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Marion, South Carolina [><]
thanks for all the replies fellas, i appreciate it.
gonzo....nope, ive never had a hemi, and my trucks have always been chevrolet. even though all 3 of my cars are Mopars, the truck is the only small block in the crowd
CHIP
gonzo....nope, ive never had a hemi, and my trucks have always been chevrolet. even though all 3 of my cars are Mopars, the truck is the only small block in the crowd
CHIP
Nov 7, 2005 | 06:57 PM
#26
Originally Posted by treyZ28
I cant believe i'm epxlaining this to you again. God damn it.
Post 7 says
"shave the heads .030 and slap them back on, "
Post 9 says
"also, your valvetrain geometry wont be as good and your intake wont line up as well after shaving .30 off"
Then you come along in 10 and say
"Thats wrong sir!!! I did 30 off my heads!!!!!! And I used shorter rods. Done deal."
Then I say in post 11
"uhh... how is your valvetrain geometry NOT off?
you corrected it with shorter pushrods (which also constitutes more than "slapping them back on")."
Post 22 should be you saying sorry
The INTAKE PORTS ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WILL SIT HIGHER, as i said in post 17
Post 7 says
"shave the heads .030 and slap them back on, "
Post 9 says
"also, your valvetrain geometry wont be as good and your intake wont line up as well after shaving .30 off"
Then you come along in 10 and say
"Thats wrong sir!!! I did 30 off my heads!!!!!! And I used shorter rods. Done deal."
Then I say in post 11
"uhh... how is your valvetrain geometry NOT off?
you corrected it with shorter pushrods (which also constitutes more than "slapping them back on")."
Post 22 should be you saying sorry
The INTAKE PORTS ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WILL SIT HIGHER, as i said in post 17
Let it go. And im not sorry for anything.
Nov 7, 2005 | 06:58 PM
#27
Originally Posted by white1
I shaved .020 off my 5.3 heads and using stock pushrods ALL valvetrain noise went away, and there were no intake problems. You don't have problems with intake fitment to between .05-.07. .03 wont be noticed.
Youre right about the pistons, but the only difference (I thought) is that the LQ4 has dished pistons and a LQ9 has flat tops? Also I think the LQ4 connecting rods are plenty strong for anyone concerned with using stock parts and buying a used motor. If you're making enough power that they are too weak, I'd imagine you would build a forged ahort block anyway. Then the pistons and rods wouldnt matter cause you wouldnt be using them anyway.
Youre right about the pistons, but the only difference (I thought) is that the LQ4 has dished pistons and a LQ9 has flat tops? Also I think the LQ4 connecting rods are plenty strong for anyone concerned with using stock parts and buying a used motor. If you're making enough power that they are too weak, I'd imagine you would build a forged ahort block anyway. Then the pistons and rods wouldnt matter cause you wouldnt be using them anyway.
Nov 7, 2005 | 08:09 PM
#28
There are NO problems with how th eintake will be oriented with the heads when shaving them .03 go out to your truck and look. If it was me I would save the money between an lq4 and 9 buy shorter pushrods to compensate for the shaved heads put ARP rod bolts in the rods since the engine will be right there for you. ANd still come out a few hundred ahead and still have a good motor.
Nov 7, 2005 | 08:14 PM
#29
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
There are NO problems with how th eintake will be oriented with the heads when shaving them .03 go out to your truck and look. If it was me I would save the money between an lq4 and 9 buy shorter pushrods to compensate for the shaved heads put ARP rod bolts in the rods since the engine will be right there for you. ANd still come out a few hundred ahead and still have a good motor.
Nov 7, 2005 | 08:23 PM
#30
If you are going to spend over 3 grand for a motor get a brand new one for 3600 from GM performance parts I think thats what they were at when I was going to go with a STOCK 6L