I’m looking at rebuilding my 6.0 again. I had rebuilt it at around 165k because it lost compression, no idea why. I did new pistons and rings and reused the rest of the components. I didn’t heat up 2 of the rods and when pressing the pin in it scraped some material off which I’m pretty sure messed up the tolerance of those so I plan on replacing those with new gen 6.0 floating rods. I’m thinking about doing this because for some reason the engine just feels really weak and just had a lifter fail. I did a compression test and it got 210 on all cylinders except #5 which got 170 and had oil on the plug. And idea why it’s like that.

for anyone offering advice or suggestions on the rebuild I’m planning on going with new gen 6.0 rods, a comp cams 54-412-11 XFI RPM cam, ARP head bolts, main studs, and rod bolts, All new bearings, Chevrolet performance lifters, Beehive springs, a BTR trunnion upgrade, 8.1 injectors, wiseco rings for the wiseco pistons, and an ATI super damper

 

There's less chance of engine damage when one coil breaks in dual valve springs. And I just bought an ATI damper for my car, I had no idea that you can't just install it. The hub bore needs to be honed to fit your crank. Measure the snout of your crank and let ATI size it for $40, otherwise your machinist should charge about the same to do it on a rod sizing machine.

 

You had press-fit connecting rods and you managed to replace the pistons/wrist pins (on only 2 pistons? How did you do the other 6, or you only had to replace 2 pistons?) without heating them? How did you manage to do that? Hit them with a large enough hammer? Yeah, that would likely remove critical aluminum from the piston casting and mess up tolerances, and possibly deform the shape of the piston(?). How long did you run it? Miles? Hopefully the wrist pin didn't back out and gouge the cylinder wall?

Take everything apart, keeping EVERYTHING in their corresponding orientation/location. Clean everything twice, then do a visual inspection and fingernail test to see what failed or needs replacing. Then go from there.

Don't main ARP bolts require a line hone (align hone) because they have higher clamping forces and causes additional distortions of the main caps? I thought that was the case watching your Powernation videos, etc.?

 

Thank you for that I had no idea those weren’t exactly ready to run

 

I replaced all 8 pistons with wiseco pro tru street pistons. Nothing was hit with a hammer i just pressed the pin through with my shop press and than realized if I heated the other 6 the went in a whole lot easier. It didn’t do anything to the piston because they are full floating pistons it only scraped a small bit of material from the inside of the rod. These pistons also have circlips so I know the pin isn’t coming out