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6.0 build for blower

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Old May 25, 2019 | 12:17 PM
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After looking at it I'm pretty sure the machinist didn't clean them like you guessed. I did read through the book again and it covers this topic at the end of the machining chapter which I undoubtedly lightly skimmed over. I ordered new plugs is it possible or safe to clean them with the short block assembled?

Also my heads came in. Thanks to 03sierraslt for hooking me up with them!











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Old May 25, 2019 | 01:28 PM
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Heads look great, it should compliment the package well.
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Old May 25, 2019 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 03sierraslt
Heads look great, it should compliment the package well.
Thank you sir! It's gonna be a shame to cover them in sand, mud, dirt and dust.


Now I'm sorta having some regrets at not forking over the extra money on a forged rotating assembly. Am I dumb for sticking with the gen 4 stuff?
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Old May 25, 2019 | 02:38 PM
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With a 1900 I wouldn’t worry about it. I may have went with some wisecos as they make a series that’s works with stock rods.
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Old May 25, 2019 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 03sierraslt
With a 1900 I wouldn’t worry about it. I may have went with some wisecos as they make a series that’s works with stock rods.
I figured if the factory 140k 4.8 has been holding up under 16psi from the 1900 for over 25k miles now. Then the 6,0 good heads and a cam should make less boost (10-12psi) therefore less stress and hopefully not blown apart pistons.

Eventually I will find out I suppose.
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Old May 25, 2019 | 07:40 PM
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From: At the dump with a clutch
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
A set of brushes, warm soapy water, and some compressed air. I usually follow up with WD40 Immediately after or the block with flash rust.

https://www.lsenginediy.com/ls-engin...aration-guide/

Awesome read I really wish I had seen this before I put together the short block. I did a general wipe down of everything with mineral spirits and carb cleaner before assembly but I did miss the oil galley and coolant passages and kinda wish I had taken more time to clean everything else. think I should disassemble the short block and re clean everything? Or will disassembly and reassembly possibly cause more harm than good?
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Old May 26, 2019 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dantheman1540
Awesome read I really wish I had seen this before I put together the short block. I did a general wipe down of everything with mineral spirits and carb cleaner before assembly but I did miss the oil galley and coolant passages and kinda wish I had taken more time to clean everything else. think I should disassemble the short block and re clean everything? Or will disassembly and reassembly possibly cause more harm than good?
Unfortunately, it's a double edged sword.

If you had any machine work done, honing, polishing ect. I would take it apart, clean everything again properly and then reassemble.

The abrasive from honing and polishing will cause damage. If the Block was cleaned with any type of media, that could also be in the oil passages.
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Old May 27, 2019 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Unfortunately, it's a double edged sword.

If you had any machine work done, honing, polishing ect. I would take it apart, clean everything again properly and then reassemble.

The abrasive from honing and polishing will cause damage. If the Block was cleaned with any type of media, that could also be in the oil passages.

I think youre right I guess this week I will tear it down and clean it. I need practice building motors anyway.
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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 12:03 AM
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Well got it torn down and put back together over the weekend. The galleys and coolant passages weren't bad at all but I'm glad I cleaned them just for the peace of mind.

Does anyone have an easier way to remove the barbell than with small flat head screw drivers and then pliers?

Also what's everyone's opinions of the billet barbells? I ran across some on Google and was curious.

I also learned that MLS head gaskets are sharp.


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Old Jun 4, 2019 | 02:15 AM
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From: JunkYard
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Saccity corvette Is the originator of the product. I feel it's worthwhile as you can replace the o-ring and reuse it. The plastic ones have to be dug out with a pick or a small pocket screwdriver.

I have destroyed a few old ones trying to remove them. I like that the aluminum one has a threaded hole to pull them out.
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