I have a customer with a 5.3L 2010 Silvy he just bought on line that I am putting a TVS 1900, headers, and converter in. I am thinking of doing a cam swap at the same time but just thought about DOD and AFM. Did all of these trucks have DOD and AFM in that year? I think the motor is an LY5 but I am not all that familiar with that year. If the motors did come both ways, with or with out DOD/AFM how do I tell with out seeing the truck if it has it or not? I was going to do a LXL 218/226 on a 115+4 3 bolt retrograde. The instant boost and converter should make it a really good driver and still not have any overlap to bleed off boost. If it does have DOD and AFM will those cam specs work with the DOD/AFM or are they to aggressive? Also, with the minimal reading I have don on it at this point if I do the retro cam I will have to swap the lifters for normal ones correct? Any help with this will be great. Thanks.

 

Upon further research it seems that he either has an iron block AFM LY5 VIN code (Y), or the aluminum LH6 AFM VIN code (M). Either way it looks like I will have to use an AFM cam if I don't want to get into lifter swapping. So same question applies with the lobe aggressiveness.

 

im running a comp dod/vvt cam #689-421-13. i think you have vvt also that year. my motor is a lmg 5.3. comp says no more than 500 lift on dod lifters. im running yella terra 1.8 ultra lites for more lift.

 

Craigsix, thanks for the response. That is the cam I am going to run. What size push rods are you running? I am guessing that the normal 7.4's will work but it looks like the AFM lifters are taller. That is the last part of the equation. How do you like the cam? Did you gain much out of it? I will be running 6lbs of boost on it with the Maggi. Also, was doing the swap and Phaser limiter pretty straight forward like a normal cam swap? I am just going to replace the stock timing chain while I am in there. I am also assuming that the cam is the single bolt variety. The YT 1.8's are a good idea. That should gain another .020" or so on the lift. With this one I am just going to do the Comp trunion up grade.

 

DOD lifters fail with the stock cam.

Plan on swapping them out and doing a DOD delete kit, and having it tuned out.

 

This^

 

So, these lifters are really that bad? I know it sounds strange to list all the stuff above and still say budget but to do the DOD delete and pull the heads I will have to add another $800 to my guys bill. What are we buying here? Piece of mind that we prevented what could have happened or what is going to happen? I am going to have to break it down for him.

 

If you want to see what all is in a DOD delete kit, TSP sells a bare bones complete kit

for failures search DOD lifter failure

when a lifter fails and its driven after failure. . . . It will take out the engine. Loose metal in an engine is bad mmmmmkkkk

 

Got it, I understand metal in the motor is bad. I did as much research as I could on this engine before I started specing the parts but the deeper I got the more crap that came up. I was going to originally do the DOD delete with a cam I speced but then heard about Comps new AFM cams. Seemed to fit the bill. In addition to all of the delete hard parts, I think I am going to drill and tap the oil bosses and plug them with allen set screws. My only other concern with going DOD delete is not addressing the oil pump and pan bypass issues. The pump seems to put out more volume but is regulated to a lower pressure than a stock pump. I was not aware of how bad the lifter issues were though. I was thinking it was a couple failures over time. Most of the time these things get blown out of proportion. We are already in the $10,000 range on this build and was trying to avoid adding another $600-$800 for parts and labor. Plus I hate removing heads if I am not going to port them or replace them with something better. But, cheap, fast, and reliable hardly ever go into the same build. Thanks for the responses. If you have any other tid bits of info that may help they will be appreciated.

 

The same year motor that you have, the 4.8 valley cover bolts right up with oil boss block offs in the cover, its part of the DOD delete kit