1st performance part addition to 04 Silverado 5.3
#1
After doing some research I decided to make a post. I have 04 Silverado with a 5.3 L and I’m going to do some performance additions to it stock 5.3 with 706 heads no tune. Where should my first edition be long tube headers and a tune before I do anything else as far as intake and valve job thanks for your input I appreciate it
#2
What are your goals and budget?
In my opinion you'd notice more with different gears and tune than you would with headers and a tune. Obviously one is cheaper than the other.
In fact I'd probably do a camshaft and a tune before I did headers just because I don't like the added work that comes with headers if you wanted a more tame/quiet exhaust.
In my opinion you'd notice more with different gears and tune than you would with headers and a tune. Obviously one is cheaper than the other.
In fact I'd probably do a camshaft and a tune before I did headers just because I don't like the added work that comes with headers if you wanted a more tame/quiet exhaust.
#3
What are your goals and budget?
In my opinion you'd notice more with different gears and tune than you would with headers and a tune. Obviously one is cheaper than the other.
In fact I'd probably do a camshaft and a tune before I did headers just because I don't like the added work that comes with headers if you wanted a more tame/quiet exhaust.
In my opinion you'd notice more with different gears and tune than you would with headers and a tune. Obviously one is cheaper than the other.
In fact I'd probably do a camshaft and a tune before I did headers just because I don't like the added work that comes with headers if you wanted a more tame/quiet exhaust.
Ok, thanks for that info! So changing gears will actually do what? Change shift points or something? Just looking for some hp on the low end not really too interested in hauling *** maintain within 15-20 of posted speeds just want it to be quicker on low end and middle for short spurts cause never know what’s around the corner
#4
Ok, thanks for that info! So changing gears will actually do what? Change shift points or something? Just looking for some hp on the low end not really too interested in hauling *** maintain within 15-20 of posted speeds just want it to be quicker on low end and middle for short spurts cause never know what’s around the corner
#5
Can you tell me really what changing gears will do? Does it change where the horsepower is used? Like will it make it get off its face a lot quicker or no? What gears would I want lower or higher than 3.73? Hp tuning wld be preferred tune correct? Speed density tune I live in a small town closest performance shop 3 hours away. I wanted to do stage 2 cam and a tune first but read somewhere that I need the exhaust worked first. Cant pump air in if u can’t get it out right. That’s what I’ve always learned was anyway
Last edited by Toddadcox; May 20, 2022 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Add info
#6
Well right now im looking about $1500-2k for something, i dont tow anything no need justwant it a lot quicker. Idk the headers dont bother me, I am really leaning towards headers and a tune before changing the inake and working heads dont want anymore thn 50-75more ponies ill be happy with 350-375 hp. Im luicky i hae a liscence now is how I am lol,
What are your goals and budget?
In my opinion you'd notice more with different gears and tune than you would with headers and a tune. Obviously one is cheaper than the other.
In fact I'd probably do a camshaft and a tune before I did headers just because I don't like the added work that comes with headers if you wanted a more tame/quiet exhaust.
In my opinion you'd notice more with different gears and tune than you would with headers and a tune. Obviously one is cheaper than the other.
In fact I'd probably do a camshaft and a tune before I did headers just because I don't like the added work that comes with headers if you wanted a more tame/quiet exhaust.
#7
Different gears like 4.10's or 4.56's would make it get up and go way faster than 3.42's or something like that. You'd have a reduced top speed but your 0-80mph would be quicker with something like those. It's just that gear swaps are pretty spendy if you can't do the work yourself.
If tuning isn't something that you want to tackle yourself or if you don't have anyone local that can do it, then buying HP Tuners likely isn't the option for you. There is a company called BlackBear that does remote style tuning or you can buy a tuner kit from Diablo or maybe HyperTech. Those usually have "premade" tunes that are better than nothing but they won't have emission related deletions on them. Like if you removed the cats and stuff like that, so it's tough to say which way to go on all this.
If tuning isn't something that you want to tackle yourself or if you don't have anyone local that can do it, then buying HP Tuners likely isn't the option for you. There is a company called BlackBear that does remote style tuning or you can buy a tuner kit from Diablo or maybe HyperTech. Those usually have "premade" tunes that are better than nothing but they won't have emission related deletions on them. Like if you removed the cats and stuff like that, so it's tough to say which way to go on all this.
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#8
Different gears like 4.10's or 4.56's would make it get up and go way faster than 3.42's or something like that. You'd have a reduced top speed but your 0-80mph would be quicker with something like those. It's just that gear swaps are pretty spendy if you can't do the work yourself.
If tuning isn't something that you want to tackle yourself or if you don't have anyone local that can do it, then buying HP Tuners likely isn't the option for you. There is a company called BlackBear that does remote style tuning or you can buy a tuner kit from Diablo or maybe HyperTech. Those usually have "premade" tunes that are better than nothing but they won't have emission related deletions on them. Like if you removed the cats and stuff like that, so it's tough to say which way to go on all this.
If tuning isn't something that you want to tackle yourself or if you don't have anyone local that can do it, then buying HP Tuners likely isn't the option for you. There is a company called BlackBear that does remote style tuning or you can buy a tuner kit from Diablo or maybe HyperTech. Those usually have "premade" tunes that are better than nothing but they won't have emission related deletions on them. Like if you removed the cats and stuff like that, so it's tough to say which way to go on all this.
375 hp is about 130 more hp over stock unless you are talking crank hp.
#9
The best part about all this is the planning is free.. I try to tell all my customers that you can plan builds out several times and it doesnt cost you anything but time and saves a ton of money.
But If i had to do it all over again. I would get tuning software, EFI Live or HPTuners or splurge and put a Holley ECU/wiring harness on the truck.
IF you get EFI Live or HPTuners you will need a wideband oxygen sensor no matter the future mods. Learning how to tune will give you insight on how the engine responds to changes and can be quite fun.
After tinkering with that the next best mods will be Gears (4.10s-4.56s, Depends on tire size) and a quality Torque converter (CircleD has been very good on giving me the stall speed and top end efficiency)
Even with a stock engine you can wake it up just with those 2 changes with a tune.
Think about right now how it takes a couple seconds to get the truck going, then about 3500rpms it really starts pulling strong, But when it shifts the rpms fall down pretty low on the 1-2 upshift and then after a second it starts pulling strong again.
Now throw in some lower gears that let you get to that 3500 rpms quicker and to the peak power quicker and after the shift it doesnt take as long to get to that power again.
Now add a good torque converter, you can hit that 3500 rpm almost instantly and after the shift the Rpms stay higher and it pulls really strong cause your not falling out of the power band.
Majority of the trucks i get in for a tune have too large of a cam for the converter and gear/tire size and are awfully slow.
Then before you know it your looking at different size turbos cause you have gotten addicted and you want to go faster.
Going from a mid 15 second truck to a mid 11 second truck is a thrill.
But If i had to do it all over again. I would get tuning software, EFI Live or HPTuners or splurge and put a Holley ECU/wiring harness on the truck.
IF you get EFI Live or HPTuners you will need a wideband oxygen sensor no matter the future mods. Learning how to tune will give you insight on how the engine responds to changes and can be quite fun.
After tinkering with that the next best mods will be Gears (4.10s-4.56s, Depends on tire size) and a quality Torque converter (CircleD has been very good on giving me the stall speed and top end efficiency)
Even with a stock engine you can wake it up just with those 2 changes with a tune.
Think about right now how it takes a couple seconds to get the truck going, then about 3500rpms it really starts pulling strong, But when it shifts the rpms fall down pretty low on the 1-2 upshift and then after a second it starts pulling strong again.
Now throw in some lower gears that let you get to that 3500 rpms quicker and to the peak power quicker and after the shift it doesnt take as long to get to that power again.
Now add a good torque converter, you can hit that 3500 rpm almost instantly and after the shift the Rpms stay higher and it pulls really strong cause your not falling out of the power band.
Majority of the trucks i get in for a tune have too large of a cam for the converter and gear/tire size and are awfully slow.
Then before you know it your looking at different size turbos cause you have gotten addicted and you want to go faster.
Going from a mid 15 second truck to a mid 11 second truck is a thrill.
#10
Is $1500-$2K your entire budget for the entire truck, or just to go quicker, is that all you are concerned with?
Don't bother with the intake. You can find em from $40-$400, and none of them will really do anything with where you are at. As long as your current one isn't damaged, your factory is fine for where you are and planning on going with that budget, (even though we have all wasted money on em).
For $2k: Tune, headers/full exhaust, gears and cam. All of this would: require you to do all the work, you would have to go with lower end headers/ exhaust components, and you won't get to 375 on a 5.3 with that. If you can add another $1k+ (even down the road), you could get some better flowing heads, and could get close to that 375 goal.
Don't bother with the intake. You can find em from $40-$400, and none of them will really do anything with where you are at. As long as your current one isn't damaged, your factory is fine for where you are and planning on going with that budget, (even though we have all wasted money on em).
For $2k: Tune, headers/full exhaust, gears and cam. All of this would: require you to do all the work, you would have to go with lower end headers/ exhaust components, and you won't get to 375 on a 5.3 with that. If you can add another $1k+ (even down the road), you could get some better flowing heads, and could get close to that 375 goal.







