I would think thats the upper limit. And really this tranny is more for truck duty. Slow shifting for thumping around town and pulling trailers. High weight vehicles. But I guess everything in this thread could apply to a 2wd T56 or TR6060 swap.

It was pretty easy to cut the hole for the shifter. I looked at the linkage length and make a mark on the sheet metal based off the tcase shifter handle under the truck. Made a template from the shifter base with paper. Put the template on the floor and then centered it on the mark. cut out the carpet insulation and sheet metal. trimmed up a bit. held in place with sealant and self tapping screws.

 

Is there anyway I could keep my auto 4wd selctor I really feel like I want to keep that and not have to cut 2 holes lol. My plans for this truck is swapping a supercharged 6.0 into it 500hp ish just want to beat some ricers would still use it for pulling and offroading 3.73 gearing. I just thought it would be cool to have a Manuel in it to instead of a 4l80e swap.

 

So how much of the plastic above the pedal bracket if any did you have to cut out? I have atomics pedal bracket so close to fitting but there is something hindering it from being flush with the screw holes on the firewall. It fits in the 2.5in hole just fine but do not have enough play to line everything up. My only guess was plastic pieces are in the way. I saw a picture on the first page of this thread and looks like the pedal bracket sits damn near at the top bottom of the sheet metal under the dash....if this makes sense

 

I think it will hold 500hp without any issues. These Trans came factory in 90s and early 2000 Cummins powered dodge 2500s and I believe the 3500s as well. Many guys push over 500hp and much more torque through their NV4500s the only issue I’ve seen people have with those is clutches which can be upgraded easily and 5th gear nut vibrating off. However when I ordered my NV4500 from Midwest transmission they told me the GM NV4500 never had the 5th gear nut issue. I’ve also read people saying that they have issues with synchro’s going out but most seem to be related to improper fluid.

I do agree completely with Z28_Six_Speed when he said the Trans is really designed for medium duty trucks hauling loads and granny shifting around town. However I have been banging the crap out of mine for around 8k miles 3k of which is with a TVS1900 making estimated 425WHP. It never locks me out of gears at high RPM, it never grinds, pops out, nor have I had clutch slip. It does take some effort to get it into gear this is not a smooth car transmission by any means and the shift throws are rather far apart.

Where this transmission really shines in my opinion is that it’s quiet especially compared to the NV3500 that came factory in my truck. The OEM clutch is extremely smooth, the gear ratios are nice for someone who off roads or tows and it can handle a heavy truck without any issues like many people have seen with T56s.

 

...wait, when'd you get a blower?!

 

Got it back in February but didn't get it on and running until April I think. With a 2.8 griptec it's seeing 13-14 psi.

 

There is some rubber matting that goes over the firewall you will have to trim out of the way. I dont remember it having a premade knock out. I just cut away a bunch of it and everything fit up great.

 

I did some experimenting this morning before work. I have not cut any wires from my PRNDL switch. I have been driving around with it set to park. I do not think it's using the right timing or idle tables. There is no Throttle Cracker, either. It's running well, I just think it's limited in tuneability.
So this morning, while watching on my HPT scanner, I started the truck, then shifted the switch into D. I heard the idle change. When I drove, I had idle cracker and everything was good.

I saw someone mention that with the transmission parameter set to "Manual" their truck defaulted to D on the indicator. So I stopped and set mine to "Manual" in the tune. Sure enough, it showed that it was in D on my scanner even though I had it in Park. However, I had no Throttle cracker. I think that the Clutch position sensor wire to the PCM that 2002_Z28_Six_Speed mentioned is needed in this case.

So what I think I'll do for today, since I don't have time to finish up the wiring, is to set my PRNDL switch to drive and just clip whichever wires need to be connected to trick the NSS into letting the truck start. I'll leave the tune set to 4L60E and it'll drive like it did this morning.

When I can do the wiring right, I'm going to run the needed wire to the PCM and move all of the NSS wires to the Clutch Pedal Switch like a factory manual truck. There doesn't seem to be any need for a segment swap to make this run exactly like a factory manual truck.

 

There are two ignition power sources to the PRNDL switch. Couldn't one of those be used for the clutch switch? I'm thinking for the CLutch Position Switch:

Pin A - Comes from the Brake Wiring
Pin B - Not Used?
Pin C - Take from Pin 11 on PNRDL
Pin D - Take from Pin 1 on PNRDL
Pin E - Take from Pin 12 on PNRDL
Pin F - Goes to PCM Blue 35

Edit, it looks like my wire colors differ from this, but I assume the pin locations are the same.