Well....... crap.....
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OK, what I ended up doing is machining a flat edge along the length of the cross pin. This allows the clearance needed to install/remove the pin with the gear still attached to the carrier. I personally didn't feel comfortable grinding on the gear tooth and I have a milling machine so here it is, all installed and working perfectly so far. Keeping fingers crossed....
If you do this mod to the pin, be sure to the mill the correct location of the pin. If you machine the wrong location you could end up with excessive slop between the pin and the axle shaft. You want to be able to rotate the pin 90 degrees after getting it past the gear tooth and still have the hole line up with the retaining bolt. This way the pin is still full width where the axle shafts contact it.
Mike
If you do this mod to the pin, be sure to the mill the correct location of the pin. If you machine the wrong location you could end up with excessive slop between the pin and the axle shaft. You want to be able to rotate the pin 90 degrees after getting it past the gear tooth and still have the hole line up with the retaining bolt. This way the pin is still full width where the axle shafts contact it.
Mike
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Order a new pin, and clearance the ring gear tooth. What you have done is introduce stress risers where the edges of the machined flat contact the bore in the differential. After driving for some time, that pin will start to deform the bore and introduce slop. Also, you have weakened the pin by reducing its cross sectional area.
The pin transmits the force from the differential case to the spiders gears which ultimately turns the wheels. This pin sees A LOT of shear force along with a slight bending moment. Cross sectional area plays a huge part in the amount of force this pin can withstand before failing.
If I were you, I would reconsider running this set up.
The pin transmits the force from the differential case to the spiders gears which ultimately turns the wheels. This pin sees A LOT of shear force along with a slight bending moment. Cross sectional area plays a huge part in the amount of force this pin can withstand before failing.
If I were you, I would reconsider running this set up.
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I do appreciate the advice and will keep an eye on it. I planned to do a gear oil change on it after a couple thousand miles so I'll check it then and if my conscience gets the better of me I'll have a new pin waiting to go in.
The pin was fully deburred after machining because i was concerned about it digging into the case as well.. Also, there were already flats on the pin before I started. Full width the pin was .794" after was .700" so only about 12% reduction.
Yeah the pinion could have been set a little better but I already had it in/out about 7 times and was getting irritated. Never had to fight a set of gears like this one before. Got about 80 miles and 5 heat cycles so far with no noise. Actually a tiny bit on decel but you have to listen closely with the windows up and nothing else turned on. Overall I'm happy with it so far.
Mike
The pin was fully deburred after machining because i was concerned about it digging into the case as well.. Also, there were already flats on the pin before I started. Full width the pin was .794" after was .700" so only about 12% reduction.
Yeah the pinion could have been set a little better but I already had it in/out about 7 times and was getting irritated. Never had to fight a set of gears like this one before. Got about 80 miles and 5 heat cycles so far with no noise. Actually a tiny bit on decel but you have to listen closely with the windows up and nothing else turned on. Overall I'm happy with it so far.
Mike
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