[QUOTE=timmay208;5156163]so is it a waste of time buying the HD2 kit? Ive been debating between the regular shift kit vs the HD2

So with all of this being said......Before I make a mistake as some talk about here, do I or do I not use the HD2 kit? If not, what are the options available??

I am plannng on pulling it and doing a stall/flex plate, and am able to do the work...Just want to do the "correct" work the first time...

Also, opinions on updating the joints, etc. while it is out as well... A tuner told me he would not run it on the dyno without an upgraded drive shaft....

 

I used the Transgo kit (because I already had it) but skipped the steps for their dual-feed, pressure relief valve, and the 1-2 servo pin spacer. I did the internal dual feed and Sonnax self-regulating valve instead. The kit still comes with a lot of useful springs and other parts to help firm up shifts, also comes with an HD intermediate snap ring and beefier springs for the direct clutch. I used a Transgo HD single-layer separator plate instead.

If I didn't already have the HD2 kit I probably wouldn't have used it.

But, I haven't driven with it yet. It's still on the workbench.

 

I'm pulling my 80E apart tomorrow to undo the transgo install and start and full rebuild. After looking through my ATSG manual and the transgo instructions it looks like the valve body drilling can be fixed with just threading a plug into the hole that the transgo relief valve needle seats in since that was originally just a void.

I need to install all 8 check ***** in their original locations correct? This is going to be internally dual fed with a Sonnax boost valve.

The last thing I'm not sure about is step 4, the cross drilling of the pump stator cover. After locating the passages in the ATSG manual it looks like the cross drilling allows line pressure to flow into the converter feed circuit. I'm assuming this is done to ensure full line pressure is getting to the converter clutch when it is applied to prevent slippage correct? Is having this hole drilled going to cause any problems if I do internal dual feed, Sonnax boost valve, stock separator plate, and only use the springs from the transgo kit?

 

Good questions...I wish Vince or someone in the know would answer. I just decided I would run the full HD-2 kit in my trans because it was already installed.

 

Another question. PATC lists two different Sonnax boost valves. Price isn't a factor but one is $32 and one is $75. The $32 one looks like a similar valve to the stock valve but with different spring. The $75 one looks similar as well but the description reads a lot different and no spring is pictured. I'm not sure what one I need.

 

you want the $75 one its self regulating the other one isn't

 

Alright, thanks.

Does anyone know about step #4 and cross drilling the pump stator cover?

 

It provides full flow to the TC all the time. Otherwise the PR valve can cutoff converter flow completely at times (both locked or unlocked).

 

Good to know. I thought I had screwed myself but it turns out its no big deal.

 

When doing the internal dual feed mod (not the HD2 dual feed), what are you guys drilling the 2-3 orifice in the separator plate to? My 2-3 shift is very soft and I think it might be because I'm trying to fill the entire direct through only the 2-3 orifice.

I followed Corey's method, but I also drilled a tiny (0.055" I think) hole in the outside of the direct drum to prevent centrifugal apply per Jake's recommendation. I drilled the separator plate to "average" I believe which is 0.086". I'm thinking it needs to be quite a bit larger in order to fill the direct faster, especially with that 0.055" hole which is basically a controlled leak.

It holds 3rd gear fine, just too soft of a shift even at max pressure.