Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

Got my 4L80E Transgo HD-2 kit today and have some questions. The plate that goes between the valve body and the trans case is made of three separate plates riveted together. There is no gasket or anything between the three plates. Am I supposed to drill the rivets and use one of the three plates, or all three at once? It seems like without gaskets between the plates there would be some leaking going on. Also a few of the small holes in the three plates have different diameters.

For the accumulator spring, what are you guys using? It says to use the outer spring by itself for firm shifts, and the inner spring by itself for even firmer shifts. Is this shift firmness for all gears?

Are there any steps of this kit that I should not do, or do differently?

This is for my '01 turbo truck, 600-700rwhp, going to go with a 2600-2800 10.25" stall. It's 100% street daily driven, will never see the track. Looking for crisp clean shifts around town, nothing head jerking, and firm shifts at WOT, maybe even to the point of chirping the tires if that's possible. I do have EFILive to tune to the line pressures. Is it better to go with the most firmness with the shift kit and then dial it back with the tune? Or vice versa?

Thanks!

Hivelocit

iTrader: (7)

Use the plate as is, once its torqued down with both the gaskets on either side there won't be any leaking. I used the firm outer spring and drilled all the holes to .096 and as far as hole diameters the ones I had to drill were all the same before and after. Be sure you are finding the correct ones. I did everything in the kit since it is all made to work together. Someone explained better what the accumulator did regarding the spring firmness and why it's important. Check out my entire thread it's still up. I was in your same shoes last week. Good Luck!

slammedsilvy

iTrader: (3)

For what it's worth, I did the install by the manual, .96 holes, used the plate that came with it, and both outer and inner blue springs.

Might want to read around though. Some recommend not to use the plate as they say it does cross leak. Also, there are other suggested methods to do the pressure relief mod. I've read some of the top builders on this forum and tech say that they use part of the kit, modify other parts, and discard some of it completely. A lot of alterations can be made, that's what makes transmission building unique.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

So does using both blue accumulator springs give the softest shift?

Still curious if its better to go firm with the kit and then soften with the tune if needed, or vice versa.

slammedsilvy

iTrader: (3)

Yes, both = softest. Like the other poster mentioned, there was a thread just a week or two ago about this exact step in the HD2 kit. Since HD2 kits are used so often on these 80e transmissions, I wouldn't be surprised if you could find a thread related to every step in that manual that would describe what it helps/hinders, what to do, what to avoid, etc. I know I found tons of them searching around.

Hivelocit

iTrader: (7)

From my thread, smokes how explains the Accum spring firmness setting:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hivelocit
Yeah I suppose if it becomes unruly I can tame it down. Did not want to enlarge the holes and wish I didn't.

What does the ACCUM firmness have to do with the overall firmness within the shifts? Since it can be adjusted seperately what role does it play?

smokeshow
In a nutshell, the accumulator controls apply piston speed. With a softer spring in the accumulators, they will fill up with transmission fluid while compressing the spring. The piston being applied is in parallel with this accumulator, so since the accumulator has a certain volume to fill, it effectively slows the piston down so it doesn't just slam the clutches. Firmer springs make the accumulators basically have more resistance to filling, so the piston moves faster and applies the gear sooner and sometimes harsher. I use the firm accumulator springs and the .096 holes in the transmissions that i build.