Just got back from the dealer. They never tuned my Tahoe, mother*!ckers lied.

 

Damn. How much did you pay for the "so called" tune

 

Unfortunately a tune isn't necessarily detectable by a dealer. They can't see the parameter changes, only the Calibration I.D. numbers.

 

$200 was tagged onto the $2k bill. Never mind the unexpected rear-end rebuild and all the gas they used and never replenished.

Really?
If the parameters were changed wouldn't that change the calibration numbers?
This is what gets me, an experienced tuner should be able to sit down and go through the changes that were made so the customer can understand what was actually done.
I had called them last Friday in regards to the file for my tune. He had some file for the original work but, I was not able to open it on my computer.
He also said, the guy never saved the new changes on the computer.
I feel like I've been getting the run around, terrible service, lack of communication and the worst customer service I've had to deal with in a very long time.

From searching around, it looks like it might be the afm/dod. I'm hoping that's all it is. I'll be deleting that completely hopefully this summer.

 

They could always read the tune off of it for you, its quick and easy. I think they are jerking you around. If its a hpt file you wont be able to view it but we can. (Those of us with HPTuners)

 

That's what I was thinking, hell, I've spent enough time at there shop. You'd think maybe they'd invite in for a little explanation to the changes that were made.
I believe you are correct, it is very unfortunate.
I will more than likely stop trying as it has gotten me nowhere.

 

I found another shop, explained my situation. They seem confident that they can figure it out. He said it sounds like the converter is locking up too early. 35mph instead of 43/45mph. He also mentioned that it sounds like they tuned it for lock up at wot. This is all new to me, this tuning stuff.
We'll see what happens, its on 04-01 @ 1pm.

What's weird is that when the weather is warmer, the vibration and noise is not as pronounced as when its cold out.

 

Not sure this will be the cause but I didn't want to be a jerk and not say anything. If you have not inspected the mass air flow sensor for dirt buildup on the tiny little resistors, you need to especially if you run a gauze air filter that needs to be oiled. The air flow reading is the first input to the trans calculations and can be off enough (dirty on the air intake side) to cause a problem but not be out of range enough to set a code. I wanted to see around 200 Grams per second or more (V8's) on the scanner at WOT and close to redline, and I am at 5600 feet altitude. That could also be the lean problem since the computer isn't seeing the correct airflow and not adding appropriate fuel. I had great luck with a small white bristle brush as soft as possible soaked in brake cleaner but go easy on those tiny wires. The white bristles let you see any dirt easier. You mentioned air temperature and that got me thinking.

Hope you get this nightmare of a problem fixed soon. You have been through enough already. What a mess.

 

Hey Brian, I'll look into that this weekend. Thanks for the info.

After a couple of hours at the shop today, he dyno tuned and road tuned my Tahoe.
It drives much better, I'm going to have to get used to it after it driving like crap for so long.
Unfortunately, it still has that vibration. I'm going to buy some U joints and replace them. While I'm under there I'm also going to check the trans mount.
Awesome.

 

One thing I did was get under it grab the driveshaft and try to move it. It moved and it actually made a noise.
Should you be able to move the driveshaft by hand? Up and down or side to side, not actually rotate it?