Yeah, seeing that I cruise at around 40 for most of my drive home, that's why it locks up then. In 4th it locks up at 45.
I e-mailed the last tuner and he did not respond. I'm not having much luck around here with shops or tuners. No one wants to help me resolve the issue by diagnosing it, they just want me to replace everything. If I was made of money, I would've replaced everything as well as delete the DOD.

On a side note. I took it for an 8 hour drive, 4 hours each way. It drove quite well, no issues. Though I think I felt a miss while driving, I'm not completely sure it was it may have been the rough rode's in SC. Still no codes.
I may just replace my coil packs first and go from there. I need to pull my plugs and check them out as well as check my injectors. I need more time in a day.

 

Well, I climbed under 1 of my truck this weekend and the Slip yoke was nice and tight no play in it.

Unfortunately, I blew the transmission in my DD today...

 

It certainly isn't normal for a yoke to have any play at all.
I'm going to e-mail gmparts and get some part numbers for my yoke and universal joints.

That's terrible news man, sorry to hear.

 

I finally got around to replacing my tail shaft housing, yoke and u-joints.

It feels much better and the clunking issue has been eliminated.
But, it still vibrates when the converter locks up.
So, I can eliminate the driveshaft from the equation, hah.
One thing I am worried about is the shop who replaced/installed my new yoke and u-joints put too much heat into the driveshaft and has actually damaged it.
It seems like I find the best shops around, they cant tune, install a converter or replace yoke/u-joints. And I end up paying for it, awesome.

edit: is a snap-on modis scan tool as capable as a techII?

 

We have a brand new snap on modis scan tool at my work it's far better IMO than a tech 2. But a tech 2 always has a need, but thats mainly for random programing things.

 

Ok cool, thanks
The next shop I'm going to has one.

I'm going to go in there prepared this time and write down every question from this thread and the interwebs, hah. Hopefully he wont kick me out.

 

That didn't work, hah.
He suggested another shop after explaining my situation. That shop was not capable as well.

I've been chatting with PCM of NC and will have to reschedule an appointment with them. We've been chatting back and forth for a couple of weeks.

 

Looking for some more info.
Still dealing with the shudder but, I think we may have found the issue.

What should the operating trans pressure be on 4l60e?

EDIT Found my answer, I think. Does 190psi sound right? If so, I'm at 80psi. Less than half. Supposedly, this is what's giving me the shudder under lite throttle.

 

I just found out that those pressures are normal.

 

Away from my comp. Look under the adaptive pressure features in hpt. There is a pressure multiplication factor for the tcc circuit. There is another for gear selection. (You should notice that the pressures change between od, reverse, 1st & 2nd gear selections). This multiplier controls how fast the pressure ramps up once the ecu commands lockup. Tweak that setting until the converter has positive engagement.