Rear End is making noises on turns! (OPEN DIFF)
#11
A Chiltons book should have a good writeup on it. But it's really not too bad.
Lift up the back of the truck (use jackstands!). Pull off the tires, brake calipers, rotors. Drain the diff, and then pull the cover. There should be a bolt on the passenger side of the rear end carrier (the big metal chunk that the ring gear is bolted to), this bolt is what holds the big rod in between the spider gears. Then slide out that rod (it might be difficult to find a way to slide it out since it is pretty long. Once you get that out, push the axles in towards the center and pull out the c clips on the axle shafts (the ends inside the rear diff). then slide them part ways out so you can pull out the spider gears. Then pull everything out including the shims in the original gears. Then do the reverse to install them. Don't forget to use the shims that it comes with, and it may take a couple tries to get everything lined up right. Push the axle shafts back in and insert the C clips again, slide the axles back out, insert the rod back in and put the bolt back in. Then spin the axle shafts to make sure everything spins without binding. Get a new gasket and 2 qts of rear end fluid and put it back together.
I'm sure I missed something as its been over a year since I've done it, so someone else chime in if i missed a step. Also, I think it'd be worth it to pick up a chiltons book if you don't have one. They have pictures if you get confused.
Also, not sure if this will work as I'm not sure it is magnetic, but once you free the big rod from the carrier (sometimes it gets kinda stuck, I had to use a hammer to break it loose) try using a big pen magnet or something to pull it out from the front instead of pushing it through.
Lift up the back of the truck (use jackstands!). Pull off the tires, brake calipers, rotors. Drain the diff, and then pull the cover. There should be a bolt on the passenger side of the rear end carrier (the big metal chunk that the ring gear is bolted to), this bolt is what holds the big rod in between the spider gears. Then slide out that rod (it might be difficult to find a way to slide it out since it is pretty long. Once you get that out, push the axles in towards the center and pull out the c clips on the axle shafts (the ends inside the rear diff). then slide them part ways out so you can pull out the spider gears. Then pull everything out including the shims in the original gears. Then do the reverse to install them. Don't forget to use the shims that it comes with, and it may take a couple tries to get everything lined up right. Push the axle shafts back in and insert the C clips again, slide the axles back out, insert the rod back in and put the bolt back in. Then spin the axle shafts to make sure everything spins without binding. Get a new gasket and 2 qts of rear end fluid and put it back together.
I'm sure I missed something as its been over a year since I've done it, so someone else chime in if i missed a step. Also, I think it'd be worth it to pick up a chiltons book if you don't have one. They have pictures if you get confused.
Also, not sure if this will work as I'm not sure it is magnetic, but once you free the big rod from the carrier (sometimes it gets kinda stuck, I had to use a hammer to break it loose) try using a big pen magnet or something to pull it out from the front instead of pushing it through.
Last edited by 00ChevyScott; Feb 2, 2009 at 09:20 PM.
#13
#14
Mine was making noise too...



That was a great write up 00ChevyScott.
One other thing to make sure of is to CAREFULLY inspect your ring and pinion. You want to make sure none of the pieces got ground up in the other gears. Though, if you've been driving like this for a while, they may have. If you have the money and/or time to do a gear swap and a new LS carrier, it's a really good idea.
That's what I decided to do with mine, I figured I'd go ahead and eliminate all of the possible problems that the 10 bolts are prone to.



That was a great write up 00ChevyScott.
One other thing to make sure of is to CAREFULLY inspect your ring and pinion. You want to make sure none of the pieces got ground up in the other gears. Though, if you've been driving like this for a while, they may have. If you have the money and/or time to do a gear swap and a new LS carrier, it's a really good idea.
That's what I decided to do with mine, I figured I'd go ahead and eliminate all of the possible problems that the 10 bolts are prone to.
#15
The post above by 00ChevyScott is right on about what you need to do. I'll just add to be a little careful when removing the pinion shaft lock bolt. If it feels like it's coming out hard, work it back and forth a little. Most of the time it screws rite on out, no problem. Every once and a while though the pin portion of the bolt that engages the pinion shaft will snap off. If it does, it's not the end of the world. The pin it pretty brittle. You can take a big drift pin and a hammer to drive the pinion shaft through a little and rotate the carrier 180 degrees and pull it out. If it damages the pinion shaft you will have to get another one and of course a new pinion shaft lock bolt. Good luck, I'm sure you can handle it without a problem.
#17
I got everything apart, very simple like you guys said.
BUT, i believe they sent me the wrong gears. they are not the exact same as the ones that came out.
on the gears that spline into the axels the "ribs" that actually mesh.
stock - they extend vertically from the bottom plate about 1/4", then they taper in towards the center
Summit - Ribs extend outward for 3/8" then taper in towards the center. total heght about 1/4" taller then stock
I noticed then when i could not put the C-clips in. it doesn't appear that the axel will push in far enough to allow room for the c-clip. perhaps if i didn't put the thin washer in that comes stock and they give you...
anyone have this issue? is it an update, or did i get the wrong parts?
2000 1500, 10 bolt rear.
EDIT - they are not the same as in the picture, the picture looks like stock. they are black and slightly larger....
BUT, i believe they sent me the wrong gears. they are not the exact same as the ones that came out.
on the gears that spline into the axels the "ribs" that actually mesh.
stock - they extend vertically from the bottom plate about 1/4", then they taper in towards the center
Summit - Ribs extend outward for 3/8" then taper in towards the center. total heght about 1/4" taller then stock
I noticed then when i could not put the C-clips in. it doesn't appear that the axel will push in far enough to allow room for the c-clip. perhaps if i didn't put the thin washer in that comes stock and they give you...
anyone have this issue? is it an update, or did i get the wrong parts?
2000 1500, 10 bolt rear.
EDIT - they are not the same as in the picture, the picture looks like stock. they are black and slightly larger....
#18
these are what they sent me, according to the picture
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
they are in a box marked 85-2022 though
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
they are in a box marked 85-2022 though
#19
They sent you one for a 8.5" 10 bolt rear, you need the ones for the 8.625 (99+) 10 bolt. I'm suprized they are different, as the ring gears on the 8.5/8.6 are the same size. I would call up Summit and tell them that they messed up and have them ship you the right parts for sure this time. You did order the ones I linked you to on the other page right? Be sure and tell them it is the 8.625 in the 99+ trucks.
#20
They sent you one for a 8.5" 10 bolt rear, you need the ones for the 8.625 (99+) 10 bolt. I'm suprized they are different, as the ring gears on the 8.5/8.6 are the same size. I would call up Summit and tell them that they messed up and have them ship you the right parts for sure this time. You did order the ones I linked you to on the other page right? Be sure and tell them it is the 8.625 in the 99+ trucks.
so they put the wrong gears in the box and ill miss another day of work because of it



