GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

PT.net Gear Install How-To

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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 07:02 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by axekick
I'm curious. Is a little gear noise normal during break in?
Ideally they should be quiet from the start, but some gear brands can be noisy.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by axisT6
BREAK-IN PROCEDURES

1. NO hard acceleration.
2. NO heavy hauling.
3. NO heavy towing.
4. NO driving over 60 mph.

Once the gears are installed, drive the vehicle for about 30 minutes while keeping the "NO" list above in mind. After 30 minutes, park and let the differential cool completely. This initial break-in is very important. After the differential is cooled continue the break-in with the "NO" list in mind for 500 miles. After 500 miles, change the gear oil and have fun.
after this initial 30 minute cool down, could I drive about 200 miles without stopping. Or should I stop and let it cool down in 30 minute intervals.

I'm picking up my truck today with the new 4.56s.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #43  
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It is up to you. Some people say just drive it, and some people say break it in. I broke in my 4.56's a few weeks ago properly.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 07:15 PM
  #44  
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How in the HELL are you guys crushing the crush sleeve. I tried everything. I tried putting the floor jack under the breaker bar and using it to push up to tighten the nut. I even went and got a impact gun rated at 580 ft-lbs, turned it up to 130 psi, and nada. So I reused the stock crush sleeve and it seems to be working okay.

And this writeup says to use 3 quarts of gear oil. I could only fit in 2, then another half quart after a quick test drive, so 2.5 total. This was to the bottom of the filler hole, not the 15-40mm lower like recommended. Perhaps my pinion is rotated down lower than yours. I have 6* shims on mine.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #45  
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An impact will crush it. It goes hard at first. You really shouldn't use the old crush sleeve.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 11:03 PM
  #46  
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Well if 580 ft-lbs doesn't do it I don't know what else to do. I searched on here and lots of people resuse the crush spacer w/o issue. My gears seem to be working out, dead silent and good contact pattern.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #47  
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I reused mine since I couldn't crush the new one.enough... Just be careful when installing the pinion nut not.to over crush it
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 02:34 AM
  #48  
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My Snap on MG725 is rated at 810 FT LB of working torque. As mentioned, It takes some doing but mine did the Job were others failed. We were not able to start crushing it any other way.

Believe me, we tried putting a 4ft cheater bar on a 2 foot breaker bar and barely moved it...
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 03:01 PM
  #49  
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Thanks for the write up! I used this for my truetrac/4.10 install. I had to use the shims that came with my master install kit because the trutrac posi was too large to acomodate the factory shims. Took me three hours to get backlash right ! I see why shops charge so much for this. Double the traction makes it all worth it!
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Old May 13, 2013 | 07:51 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by hsiriyob
Thanks for the write up! I used this for my truetrac/4.10 install. I had to use the shims that came with my master install kit because the trutrac posi was too large to acomodate the factory shims. Took me three hours to get backlash right ! I see why shops charge so much for this. Double the traction makes it all worth it!
THANXX MANN....... Been Frettin'Badd since blowin out my 14 under my half-ton 06' CC v-MAXX. Im doin mine!.....& when Im done. Im gonna put that, tuned up LQ9, on the limiter & lett gett summ! ! ! ! ! ThisBiggBlakk PikkUpp LUVZZ ITT...........
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