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PT.net Gear Install How-To

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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 07:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Black'Rado
how important is break in? i followed all of them except for the 60mph rule for about 250 miles?
If you get down to it, the 60 MPH limit is a general rule of thumb. I tell people that because I don't want them coming back unless it is for more upgrades.

If your gears aren't making noise, I wouldn't worry about it. However, I will always tell people to go no faster than 60 MPH when breaking in gears.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by james8997
awesome write up man, ill be using it this week
so its pretty much the same for the 14 bolt SF?
The principals are the same. Like stressed, download the Yukon Install Manual as it has the torque specs and pictures of acceptable and unacceptable gear patters.

The main difference between the 14SF and the 10 bolt is that the carrier uses an adjuster on one side, and shims on the other. This axle is easier to set up. You will need to get that adjuster TIGHT. Use a long punch to get it as tight as you can by hand, then index it one more hole with the punch and hammer. You will understand what I mean when you pop the cover.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 07:38 AM
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Made some slight revisions to the first and last post of the write up.

Thanks for the props guys. I am glad you all find this to be useful.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by axisT6
The principals are the same. Like stressed, download the Yukon Install Manual as it has the torque specs and pictures of acceptable and unacceptable gear patters.

The main difference between the 14SF and the 10 bolt is that the carrier uses an adjuster on one side, and shims on the other. This axle is easier to set up. You will need to get that adjuster TIGHT. Use a long punch to get it as tight as you can by hand, then index it one more hole with the punch and hammer. You will understand what I mean when you pop the cover.
ok i see, i was wondering what that was last time i popped the cover off.

so to adjust backlash, you would loosin the adjuster, and add shims? and take some out and tightin it to for more/less backlash?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by james8997
ok i see, i was wondering what that was last time i popped the cover off.

so to adjust backlash, you would loosin the adjuster, and add shims? and take some out and tightin it to for more/less backlash?
IIRC the adjuster on those axles is opposite the ring gear side of the differential. A thicker shim pack decreases backlash, a thinner one increases it.

The adjuster is more for bearing preload.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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Awesome write up thanks alot! i will be using this write up when i order my true trac.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Nice job on the write up! I think this will become a sticky, hard to see who it wouldn't.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
Nice job on the write up! I think this will become a sticky, hard to see who it wouldn't.
Thank you Sir!
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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Awesome write-up! Definite sticky!
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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if axisT6 doesnt mind, i little tip for those of you who do not have access to a press.
a little heat goes a long way im not saying go nuts on bearings with the torch, but for bearings that are a pressed fit, you can put them in the oven on about 300-350 degrees, for about 30 min, and the bearing should slide right on. i advise against using a torch because it can/will heat up very fast and and will not heat evenly. Now i have used a torch before, but a oven is much better.

Iv used this for all sorts of bearings on PTOs, marine gears, etc.
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