it could cost less if he just tears into it and replaces the clutches. but if your gonna go that far, you might as well rebuild. also, if you don't drive it often or hard you could do as suggested and get a vette servo put in and maybe a trans cooler. As long as your easy on it you can squeeze a lot more miles out of it.

I didn't even notice i said that wrong.

 

I started noticing mine slip at WOT and now starting to slip at the 1-2. Can't bitch, because it's got 214k HARD miles on it, on a stock cooler.

 

Wow, see that's another thing that makes me surprised that this one is giving out already... This one has 91,600 on it (i just looked), and a lot of those are highway miles. I started driving the truck after I got my license, and drove it back and forth to eau claire wisconsin from lafayette indiana at least once a month for a year, and got it to the upper 70's or in the 80's just from that. Like I said before our suburban we used to have with 150K+ miles on it is still running strong o_O. Of course the truck i get has to have this tranny . lol. Just my luck. I don't plan on driving it REAL easy though, so I do need it fixed.... lol. I'm not going to destroy the truck or anything, I just enjoy accelerating every once in a while like I'm sure everyone here does . I'll definitely put a better cooler on it though after it gets fixed. Should I be nervous about putting any sort of converter in it after it has been fixed (just back to stock strength, not built)?

 

Anybody have a suggestion on an aftermarket cooler? What size?

 

the bigger the better. don't have to be huge tho. just get one that's like 8000GVW

 

I wouldn't go back to "stock built", if you're going to tear into it for a rebuild. You should go ahead and at least upgrade the band, servos, and accumulator pistons.

I called a dealer and they wanted $2800 ($700 core charge) for a stock 4L60E that is remanufactured with a 36/100k mile warranty. No thank you!!! That doesn't include any labor, so I'm still looking at $3000 for another stock tranny!!!

But, I did talk to a local guy (recommended by my mechanic) and he said anywhere from $1000 - $1600. That includes labor, rebuild with 700R4 steel clutches, "beast" shell, kevlar band, new Daaco converter, usual upgrades (like accumulator pistons and servos), and whatever else needed. My mechanic had this guy rebuild his tranny and so far has lasted over 5 years. He's also built one for a guy running a huge cam and nitrous in his Z28. So, I'm going to get it done. He also told me it's rare to have the amount of miles I do on an original tranny. The 90% highway miles saved it's life.

 

FLT on the right can build a stage 4 for 1850. That's what i ordered and it'll handle anything your truck is ever going to be putting out.

 

I want to get it built, but the only problem is my dad still owns it and just wants to "fix" everything before I officially get it from him, and he doesn't want to get it built. Or even just rebuilt to stock strength. He just wants to get it fixed where it's slipping so that it works like normal again. Not replace anything else even. Oh well. I'll get it better someday if/when I need it.

 

I hear you on that, but I simply don't have the $2000 - $3000 for a FLT right now. I know that even at $1850, there's going to be a core charge ($400?), shipping to and from ($150?), taxes ($150?), and finally finding help to install or pay a shop ($300 - $400?).........that's at least $2500 out of pocket. I have to get it fixed quick and w/out a lot of time involved. The truck's my money maker and w/out it, I won't have a job. Besides, right now I don't have a lot of mods. Wheatley only took out 40% TM and I've beat the $hit out of my truck for over 65k miles with the tune before the 1st problem.

I will be doing a motor swap and switch to a FLT prolly next year. December will be my last payment and I've got to get another truck for work.

 

Ok, so a new question. Maybe a really weird one too.

It stopped doing it the other day o_O. Does that make sense? It just stopped. I made a couple 75% throttle pulls through the 2-3 shift to make sure, and nothing. It comes straight down now instead of going up a little first. Just yesterday I noticed it one time, so apparently it's an intermittent thing too... What could it be?

I have an appointment with a transmission place here locally, so hopefully he'll be able to see whatever is causing it even if it isn't actually doing it at the time...