And as far as the stress applied to the truck master cylinder (cracking in half at firewall) I have a theory.....

The bracket circled in the picture I attached is nearly impossible to see, let alone install. This bracket (not factory installed on auto trans equipped truck) looks like it would relieve some of the stress on the firewall. Actually it looks as though it is there in 5 speed trucks (microfiche picture is of 5 speed) for that specific reason.

So my question is, how do you install this bracket?
This question if for those who have put a 5 or 6 speed in an original auto truck.

 

is your t-56 a borg warner or a tremek 6060

 

ill agree the pedal housing flexs alot. but i still think it will brake. only think i can think of is making a still plate on fire wal. this way i can reuse the other 2 pedals i have lying around lol

 

My trans came from an 05 GTO
It is a Tremec M12 T56....

The M12 T56 from the GTO is said to have different gearing (C5 Z06 spec), triple cone synchronizers, carbon fiber blocker rings, steel shift forks. Otherwise it is similar to the F-body T56.

The T56 trans was built by Borg Warner up until 1998. After 1998 the T56 was built by Tremec. So they are two different companies, who built the same trans.

The Tremec 6060 trans has only been out since late 07/early 08. IT is equipped in these vehicles.
2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 (remote mount shifter with dual braces and single linkage)
2008 Chevrolet Corvette
2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10
2008 Ford Falcon FG Range
2008 Holden Special Vehicles Range (From August)
2009 Dodge Challenger
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP
2009 Cadillac CTS-V
2009 Chevrolet Camaro SS

 

Hey everybody. I have a 2002 rcsb step side and i'm curentlly doing the T56 swap. I was concerned about the tahoe center console not lining up completely and leaving a gap between the console and the dash. It lines up perfectly with the newer silverados 2003 and up. Is there any way to fix this problem with the 2002 and older silverados? thank you

 

It needs to be welded in. 2 small spot welds did it. I had the dashboard removed from the truck.

 

Thanks...I figured that is what needed to be done. However, I was able to bypass that step in my T56 conversion.

I simply made a 1/4 thick flat steel bracket on the outside of my firewall (under the hood) for the two bolts on the pedal assembly. It is very strong and I have slammed the clutch pedal pretty hard and it only flexes a little bit, but it does flex. I recommend removing the dash+spot welding the bracket like Dokta says, but if you want to save some time and hassle just fab up a bracket like I did.

Since completing my T56 conversion I am addicted to driving my truck everywhere! Gonna make a trip to the Dyno here before Winter comes.

 

well, i think it may be time to go ahead with my t56 swap. my "built" 4l60e is slipping. i'm sick of auto's. how much power are most of you making? anybody know what kind of power the ls7 clutch can hold?

 

It broke an axle in mine.

 

truck is in sig...
I would guess it's making 320-340 rwhp. hauling around the pig weight of the ECSB (now 2WD) and 3.73's, the LS7 clutch hasn't skipped a beat. 2500 miles since T56 install, NO problems at all. I DO expect to replace clutches much more often than a stock F-body car. $200.00 a pop once a year aint bad. Or find a Twin Disk. Turbogibbs has the right idea with the 5.13:1 gears. Any truck with a T56 NEEDS at least a 4.56:1 rear gear to dial in the final drive.



Cody