Need of an brake upgrade!
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
Need of an brake upgrade!
Hey guys! With my 300k silverado these brakes work descent. They will stop me but in any kind of high speed heavy braking these brakes dont do much. Of course my brake system is 100% stock, honestly never thought i needed to upgrade them but with my mods(in sig) i need it. I already and Napas Adaptive 1 brake pads all the way around (4 wheel disc) and reactive 1 rotors in front. What are some cheap easy upgrades to get this back? I need a abs module rebuild, and i dont wanna do hydro boost and cut the firewall or anything. Maybe some 07 police tahoe brakes and dual piston calipers in rears? Was thinking doing stainless steel brake lines too. Any help you can!
#5
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
the 05+ front calipers, pads, rotors and 04 SUV rear calipers, pads, rotors are the best bang for the buck up grade you can do. it made a hell of a difference on my truck. I installed stainless steal lines while i was at it.
Unloaded and emergency braking will lock up the rears a little before ABS kicks in then it will shut down like a champ.
Unloaded and emergency braking will lock up the rears a little before ABS kicks in then it will shut down like a champ.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Replacing the flex hoses with braided stainless is more of a cosmetic upgrade than anything else. If you need new hoses (the old ones definitely go bad) and you want stainless, go for it. The marketing hype for them is really mostly hype. Any difference in feel that you get is far more likely to be due to the fact you just bled the whole system after installing.
Upgrading rears without doing anything to the fronts isn't going to net a lot of difference, either. Most of your braking power is up front. Rears are important, without them you overwork the fronts, but don't put too much bias towards the rear or you'll lock 'em up and that isn't really any better than having crappy brakes to begin with.
I don't know the earlier GMT800 brakes but like firebladeJJ mentioned the newer front calipers are supposed to offer a lot better stopping power than the earlier stuff, plus you have the benefit of it being factory parts so you can get them anywhere and not pay aftermarket prices.
Add good quality rotors (skip the blingy drilled stuff that offers zero benefit) and aggressive compound semimetallic pads (get ready for some black dust) and you're on your way.
Hydroboost will give you a lot more mechanical advantage than a vacuum booster will but it does not increase the amount of braking power, just makes it easier to achieve the power you do have and will not fall victim to any low vacuum situation you might get if you have a lumpy cam. But, I did already read where you don't want to convert.
Richard
Upgrading rears without doing anything to the fronts isn't going to net a lot of difference, either. Most of your braking power is up front. Rears are important, without them you overwork the fronts, but don't put too much bias towards the rear or you'll lock 'em up and that isn't really any better than having crappy brakes to begin with.
I don't know the earlier GMT800 brakes but like firebladeJJ mentioned the newer front calipers are supposed to offer a lot better stopping power than the earlier stuff, plus you have the benefit of it being factory parts so you can get them anywhere and not pay aftermarket prices.
Add good quality rotors (skip the blingy drilled stuff that offers zero benefit) and aggressive compound semimetallic pads (get ready for some black dust) and you're on your way.
Hydroboost will give you a lot more mechanical advantage than a vacuum booster will but it does not increase the amount of braking power, just makes it easier to achieve the power you do have and will not fall victim to any low vacuum situation you might get if you have a lumpy cam. But, I did already read where you don't want to convert.
Richard
Trending Topics
#8
Gm even has a test designed to test for the responsiveness of the braking system called the TIP test. Any manufacturer that wants to sell their brakes for gm vehicles must be tip certified and pass an SAEj2521 test, which is for fade, recovery, noise and harshness along with the TIP test
#9
TECH Enthusiast
I won't argue they have a benefit, but for street-driven vehicles I doubt anybody will notice the difference strictly due to changing those lines. Now for hardcore track applications I'd say an experienced driver would notice the difference. So I guess with that said I probably should have put that disclaimer in there knowing that somebody would take issue with my statement, trust me, I totally get it and agree - and yes I have done stainless lines on some of my previous vehicles. But I also think people see them as a magic bullet upgrade for their street vehicles and that I disagree with, my opinion though.
Richard
Richard
#10
I won't argue they have a benefit, but for street-driven vehicles I doubt anybody will notice the difference strictly due to changing those lines. Now for hardcore track applications I'd say an experienced driver would notice the difference. So I guess with that said I probably should have put that disclaimer in there knowing that somebody would take issue with my statement, trust me, I totally get it and agree - and yes I have done stainless lines on some of my previous vehicles. But I also think people see them as a magic bullet upgrade for their street vehicles and that I disagree with, my opinion though.
Richard
Richard
No worries, I was just throwing that out there seeing as to how everything brakes related is my specialty.