I have a question regarding the leaf spring pack retaining pin that goes through the center of them.
I noticed that after placing the 2* shims in that the leaf pack pin only goes through the axle flange hole just a little to keep the axle somewhat squared.
I will be needing to opt for a 3* shim. I think by doing this though, it will not allow the leaf pack pin to go into the hole.
What can be done to get a 1/4"-1/2" longer pin that goes through the leaf pack?
Anyone run into this problem using a bigger shim than 2*??
I still have a very slight vibration from 15-20 mph. Though there is no vibration at all before or after that all the way up to 100mph.
Now I wish I used the hangers!!!
Anyone?

Jim

 

I have 4 degree shims and didnt change the leaf spring pin. Been on for 2 years with no problems.

I would try a carrier bearing relocator which raises the carrier bearing up higher to help with the driveline angles and vibration. I have one,

 

I have a carrier bearing relocator in a box. Though I'm not seeing it raising the DS any higher over the one that's already from the factory. It already *** close to the cross member that holds the carrier bearing.
The relocator bracket would need to lower the DS to correct my driveline angles due to just using 2" shackles in the back. The pinion will need to be pitched more upward or the DS would need to come a bit more down to fix my problem.

Jim

 

Based on your caltrac post in the other thread, I would remove the shims or keep them in the same way. Most poeple face them them the other way because there rear end does not face downward enough when loweing 4" At least that was my case.

I dont why you would get such a low speed vibration either. Most of the time, driveline vibration occurs at freeway speeds where the driveshaft is moving faster and there is just a 5-10mph window where the vibration occurs.

I dont know what to tell you man....

 

It was actually horrible when I had the 2* shims turned with the fat side to the front. It even had a humming noise. After turning them around, most of all the vibration went away and the hum disappeared.
When I didn't have any shims, the vibration was apparent, but it did not hum.
So I assume I'm headed in the right direction with the shims.
When you have hangers and shackles, then the shim will need to placed the other way. I decided to just do shackles though. It has the right look and function that I was looking for with just shackles.
Adding hangers would bring the *** end down too low for towing.

Jim

 

I dunno, Jim. My Belltech instructions said to face them to the rear with the hangers and shackles installed.

 

I think you need the shims in fat side to the rear because you only did a 2" shackle drop so far. Lifting the spring at the rear with the shackle rotates the pinion nose down. You put the shims in fat side to the rear to rotate the pinion back up again if your axle is mounted under the springs.

Before you try another shim I would buy an Empire angle gauge like grippy is using and measure your driveline angles. You should be able to get one at any hardware store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) for around $12. It will give you a good idea of exactly what you have and what you need to do to compensate for it.

 

Sounds good. I have an angle finder, but it's a peice of crap. only reads in %* increments.
I will be first trying an 1/8 in carrier bearing shim. It will just lower the carrier bearing an 1/8 of an inch. If it helps of eliminates the vibration, then I know I will be needing 3-4* shims on the rear axle. The carrier bearing shim will just be temporary just to tell me if this is my problem.
I already found 3 or 4* shims that have the pin made into them with a longer threaded portion to go through the leaf pack. Rancho makes these shims.
Wish me luck!

Jim

 

I bought some Beltech shims that came with longer bolts and longer heads on them to keep the spring pack aligned. It always seems to take a bit of frigging around to get best results. I'm sure you will get it the way you want. I am still tuning mine as I read and learn more.

Lowering raises the rear end of the aft drive shaft, well actually it lowers the carrier bearing relative to the pinion and usually you have to raise the carrier bearing to adjust for it. Well a 2" drop should not cause that much of a concern on the carrier bearing.

Good Luck!

 

djm sells longer center bolts with "sleeves" that fit under the bolt head effectively making the head of the bolt longer to reach the axle pad.