If you ever pulled out a 4l60e get in here!
Jul 13, 2010 | 06:26 PM
#31
I need to remember to try that as an option on my next job, & hopefully not ever again on my '04.white1 had a great tip, among his other good ideas, I hi-lighted that.
I don't have a transfer case, so I'll skip that.
Spray / soak your bolts in advance. Hope that u don't issues removing exh. like I did. Or some had issues w/. T40 torx on top of that brkt. NSS can be a headache too.
Pick up fluid & flush your lines.
Drain your fluid in pan early on. Take all the bolts out except 2. Pivot pan 1 way to drain it out, pivot the other way. That minimizes the mess. Take it off, pour out excess in pan, pop it on.
As charcold-bowtie said a deep 15mm, 3' ext., wobble joint w/. electrical tape, & sitting at the output shaft are your friends.
Get a 90° pick, spin those lil clips at trans fitting, pull out lines w/. a pan under em. Get new clips before u start too.
I was told better than 3 clicks is to verify distance betw. tq. conv. & flexplate.
Maybe cause my stall had some fluid in or cause I poured in all on 1 day, I couldn't get more than 1 QT in conv. (I've heard a cup (or 8oz.) , but also heard a QT. Somethin in there is best.
Figure out how your gonna mount cooler since IDK if u have a factory 1 or not. Those brkts. guys are using are sweet & hook up to TruCool 40K w/. little drama.
I did a thread w/. pics & tips, as did budhayes3. His has t-case info, incl. that lil clip upgrade.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=462976
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ake+that+Billy
Also a bit of info in here too.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=460955
I have been reading up a little in those threads, a lot of good info.
Yeah I plan on it, we'll see how it goes.
Jul 13, 2010 | 07:10 PM
#32
Jul 13, 2010 | 10:19 PM
#33
ensure that the converter is ALL the way in.. THREE solid engagements... i screwed up my first one and cracked the pump.. when you install the trans there should be a gap between flywheel and converter.. you need to measure gap and make sure its in spec.. my converter cam with the specs... if theres no gap then you dont have it in enough.. do not tighten trans bolts.. if the gap is too wide you have to shim it with washers....
also continue to check fluid... for several days.. and dont even try to take the plugs out the gear selector/ park neutral switch.... they are glued... well mine were... ha.. just un bolt it and leave wires plugged in and leave it dangling under there.. i faught them wires and then realized you can just leave them plugged in...
also continue to check fluid... for several days.. and dont even try to take the plugs out the gear selector/ park neutral switch.... they are glued... well mine were... ha.. just un bolt it and leave wires plugged in and leave it dangling under there.. i faught them wires and then realized you can just leave them plugged in...
Jul 22, 2010 | 01:38 PM
#35
Iv done it bout every which way, top bellhousing bolts from the top, from the bottom, dropped the whole thing t-case included, t-case first then trans. Its all work at the end of the day, just whichver you prefer. When I do it again, ill drop the t-case and get the top bolts from the bottom.
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