If you ever pulled out a 4l60e get in here!
Jul 11, 2010 | 09:29 PM
#22
Jul 11, 2010 | 09:53 PM
#23
WOW is all i can say. I pulled my trans out today due to the pump breaking and i had it out and undone from the t-case in maybe an hour. I pull the torsion bar crossmember completely out and drop the trans and t-case down together.
Jul 12, 2010 | 02:23 AM
#25
To take the t-case off is fairly easy. It is just 6 or 8 15mm nuts and pops right off while taking your time. I have done it this way several times. That way you dont mess with the alignment after undoing the torsion key placement and have to spend more to realign it. And the t-case only weighs about 75 lbs or there abouts. Then again i rather take that off then have to change the starter in a semi-truck where you can really only use one hand to put it up and in the hole (and they weigh about 65lbs).
Jul 12, 2010 | 05:06 PM
#26
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,245
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From: el paso, tx
Jul 13, 2010 | 01:00 PM
#27
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-230-7304/
I always just put a bolt back in above and below the dowel pins.. So 4 all together. The other 5 you can put in your parts bucket
Jul 13, 2010 | 04:46 PM
#29
I need to remember to try that as an option on my next job, & hopefully not ever again on my '04.In my Z-71, by myself it would take about 2 1/2 hours. If youre by yourself its easiest if you pull the transfer case first. I have a modified ratchet I use for that (cut off) As far as the top bolts, Ive done it with a 15mm gear wrench, and with the extensions. Personally I find the gear wrench method is easier if it isnt too tight. If it is, I like to drop the cross member so the tailhousing (transfer case in your situation) is a little lower and angles the bolts down so theyre easier to get to. ...
Oh and you should be able to get 2.5-3qts of fluid in the converter over a couple of days, or at least one in a few hours
Oh and you should be able to get 2.5-3qts of fluid in the converter over a couple of days, or at least one in a few hours
I don't have a transfer case, so I'll skip that.
Spray / soak your bolts in advance. Hope that u don't issues removing exh. like I did. Or some had issues w/. T40 torx on top of that brkt. NSS can be a headache too.
Pick up fluid & flush your lines.
Drain your fluid in pan early on. Take all the bolts out except 2. Pivot pan 1 way to drain it out, pivot the other way. That minimizes the mess. Take it off, pour out excess in pan, pop it on.
As charcold-bowtie said a deep 15mm, 3' ext., wobble joint w/. electrical tape, & sitting at the output shaft are your friends.
Get a 90° pick, spin those lil clips at trans fitting, pull out lines w/. a pan under em. Get new clips before u start too.
I was told better than 3 clicks is to verify distance betw. tq. conv. & flexplate.
Maybe cause my stall had some fluid in or cause I poured in all on 1 day, I couldn't get more than 1 QT in conv. (I've heard a cup (or 8oz.) , but also heard a QT. Somethin in there is best.
Figure out how your gonna mount cooler since IDK if u have a factory 1 or not. Those brkts. guys are using are sweet & hook up to TruCool 40K w/. little drama.
I did a thread w/. pics & tips, as did budhayes3. His has t-case info, incl. that lil clip upgrade.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=462976
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ake+that+Billy
Also a bit of info in here too.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=460955
Last edited by fastnblu; Jul 13, 2010 at 05:31 PM. Reason: Added links.
