How to Drop your 4x4
10-22-2011, 12:34 PM
#11
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JNewby96 (08-03-2022)
10-22-2011, 01:03 PM
#13
Few years ago with just drop spindles and drop keys. Flip kit in the rear with stock shackles. Couldn't get the front low enough to match the rear and the front rode horrible.
But the CV angles were alright
And just decranked stock keys and drop shackles with stock blocks still in.
But the CV angles were alright
And just decranked stock keys and drop shackles with stock blocks still in.
10-22-2011, 01:34 PM
#14
^such a nice ride!
well, here are some old photos I found from last year when I updated my front suspension.
The truck was just DJM LCA's and McGaughy lowering keys, and it had some odd alignment issues when uncranked down to ~4"+ of drop, and was putting a LOT of stress on upper ball-joints, tearing and deforming boots, and also tie-rods as well. Was getting some odd ackerman angles when turning and creating tire scrub, esp. when backing up.
So, I decided to add some new version Belltech 2508 spindles (also considered McGaughy spindles too, but went with Belltech since it gave more clearance over CV Boot and upper ball-joint stud), that way I could crank the lowering keys back up and level out my tie-rods and everything a bit more compared to the prior set-up.
By adding the spindle into the equation, I was also able to thread in the torsion key bolts nearly all the way, reducing their vulnerability when hanging out below the frame and possibly snapping off if scraping a driveway or speedbump, etc.
I also flipped the upper ball-joints in my upper control arms to get better operating angle for the ball-joint to sit in, reducing the stress on it and the boot and significantly increasing ball-joint performance and life. Luckily for us, the UCA's are perfectly symmetrical when flipped, with the exception of the angle on the outer area where the BJ is pressed into.
Below you can see the photos I copied and pasted from an older thread.
I also pressed in some Moog offset UCA bushings to give better camber adjustment. Belltech also makes some offset UCA bushings, which I believe have even more offset than the Moogs.
This is basically a cheap man's version of the DJM UCA's.
using an impact and cheap harbor freight bj press for flipping the bj's and installing the bushings
shot of quick comparison of UCA's, one with flipped BJ, and the other with reg position
shot of the offset Moog UCA bushings, to hopefully get some better camber alignment out of the set-up. You can also see the improvement of the BJ angle with them flipped in the UCA.
Belltech 2508 2" drop spindle, for 17" or larger wheels and using it on my 4X4 in this case
comparo shot between OE 4X4 spindle and new belltech spindle
spindle installed, along with new and flipped UCA and new outer tie-rods
also installed some Baer Eradispeed +2 2pc. 14" rotors and caliper relocation brackets
just some of the leftover parts
well, here are some old photos I found from last year when I updated my front suspension.
The truck was just DJM LCA's and McGaughy lowering keys, and it had some odd alignment issues when uncranked down to ~4"+ of drop, and was putting a LOT of stress on upper ball-joints, tearing and deforming boots, and also tie-rods as well. Was getting some odd ackerman angles when turning and creating tire scrub, esp. when backing up.
So, I decided to add some new version Belltech 2508 spindles (also considered McGaughy spindles too, but went with Belltech since it gave more clearance over CV Boot and upper ball-joint stud), that way I could crank the lowering keys back up and level out my tie-rods and everything a bit more compared to the prior set-up.
By adding the spindle into the equation, I was also able to thread in the torsion key bolts nearly all the way, reducing their vulnerability when hanging out below the frame and possibly snapping off if scraping a driveway or speedbump, etc.
I also flipped the upper ball-joints in my upper control arms to get better operating angle for the ball-joint to sit in, reducing the stress on it and the boot and significantly increasing ball-joint performance and life. Luckily for us, the UCA's are perfectly symmetrical when flipped, with the exception of the angle on the outer area where the BJ is pressed into.
Below you can see the photos I copied and pasted from an older thread.
I also pressed in some Moog offset UCA bushings to give better camber adjustment. Belltech also makes some offset UCA bushings, which I believe have even more offset than the Moogs.
This is basically a cheap man's version of the DJM UCA's.
using an impact and cheap harbor freight bj press for flipping the bj's and installing the bushings
shot of quick comparison of UCA's, one with flipped BJ, and the other with reg position
shot of the offset Moog UCA bushings, to hopefully get some better camber alignment out of the set-up. You can also see the improvement of the BJ angle with them flipped in the UCA.
Belltech 2508 2" drop spindle, for 17" or larger wheels and using it on my 4X4 in this case
comparo shot between OE 4X4 spindle and new belltech spindle
spindle installed, along with new and flipped UCA and new outer tie-rods
also installed some Baer Eradispeed +2 2pc. 14" rotors and caliper relocation brackets
just some of the leftover parts
10-22-2011, 01:37 PM
#15
here are some pictures of my latest updates to my front lowered 4X4 suspension.
Also some photos of the Fabtech 4X4 steering stabilizer that is also mounted on the truck.
...the latest version of the double-shear Pitman & Idler arm support brace kit from Cognito (holds the drag link much tighter and helps reduce any bumpsteer also):
shows the aluminum sway bar mount spacer that came with the older design kit, but I still needed to clear the much larger dia. Hotchkis anti-sway bar I have:
the older original version of the support brace kit from Cognito, you can see how there is only one larger side area:
and here are some of the Fabtech steering stabilizer drag link mount that I had to shorten in order to clear the Pitman brace and heim joint when turned all the way to lock:
original size
shortened and redrilled
and some of it mounted up with the Fabtech steering stabilizer next to the Pitman arm brace
It has to be at this angle rotated on the drag link in order to clear the front diff and sway bar that it is sandwiched between
Also some photos of the Fabtech 4X4 steering stabilizer that is also mounted on the truck.
...the latest version of the double-shear Pitman & Idler arm support brace kit from Cognito (holds the drag link much tighter and helps reduce any bumpsteer also):
shows the aluminum sway bar mount spacer that came with the older design kit, but I still needed to clear the much larger dia. Hotchkis anti-sway bar I have:
the older original version of the support brace kit from Cognito, you can see how there is only one larger side area:
and here are some of the Fabtech steering stabilizer drag link mount that I had to shorten in order to clear the Pitman brace and heim joint when turned all the way to lock:
original size
shortened and redrilled
and some of it mounted up with the Fabtech steering stabilizer next to the Pitman arm brace
It has to be at this angle rotated on the drag link in order to clear the front diff and sway bar that it is sandwiched between
10-22-2011, 02:10 PM
#20
yeah, I still had to cut just a bit off the end of my studs, iIf remember right it was just the tip part where there are no threads.... but unfortunately I did lose the part where you can insert an allen to prevent it from spinning when tightening or loosening.