My brakes feel like **** even with the 14" rotors and stainless lines, they are worse than the stock brakes. I would like to bleed the entire brake system by first doing the master cylinder, then having the dealer to the ABS pump, then I'll do each caliper.

Any tips on bleeding the master cylinder? My plan was to remove all of the old fluid and then refill with new fluid, and plumb the two outlets back into the reservoir and pump like mad until no bubbles come out. Will this work?

What thread size are the two outlet fittings? I just need something that will thread in a little bit (doesn't need to be flare) and preferably have a hose barb on the other end so I can hook a clear hose to it.

And then is there a special procedure for hooking the master to the two brake lines? I think I read somewhere that I have to bleed these connections also.

Thanks

 

Found a kit like this: Help/SAE bench master cylinder bleeder kit (13910) | Brake Bleeder. Universal Type | AutoZone.com

A search suggested that I need 7/16 fittings for the master. Has anyone used a kit like this? It says it comes with 7/16-24 fittings.

 

As for the master cylinder, you could just get some brake bleeder caps (essentially a plug) for where the lines install and then pump the pedal slowly to push out air through the inside of the master cylinder (will bubble up through the fluid) until you see no bubbles. I think most new master cylinder manufacturers suggest this method these days. You can pick up the bleeder plugs at autozone as well.

 

I just bought this kit today: Dorman Help! 13911 - MSTR CYL BLEEDER KIT | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Gonna give it a shot tomorrow, seems pretty straight forward.

 

I'm just curious why do you think you have air in the system? When was the last time the brake fluid was changed?

I'm interested because my brakes are terrible. Over 180k now and the fluid hasn't been changed and I'm wondering if the fluid has degraded and been contaminated with moisture that much to affect braking. Or if the factory vacuum assist brakes are just that bad. I'm doing the hydroboost swap this weekend and guess it would be a good idea to change the brake fluid at the same time.

 

I did a 14" brake upgrade and stainless lines at the same time. I did the rear first and the pedal was a little firmer than stock, felt pretty good. Then I did the front and the brakes were mushier than stock. Before I started I had pulled off the front brake line off the master to try to drain the reservoir. So I think I got air into the front brake line at the master, and when I bled the front calipers the air moved into the ABS. At least that's my theory.

I told the dealer what I did and they said I should bleed the master because I disconnected the lines at the master. But I'm just going to bleed the entire system and flush out as much of the old fluid as possible and hope the pedal gets firmer than stock.

 

Well, that makes sense then.

I've watched a few "how to" videos and they routinely use a turkey baster to empty the master cylinder reservoir. Just got to make sure the reservoir never goes dry at any point.

 

Yup gotta keep it full! I'm going to bench bleed mine, so I can pull of the reservoir and hose it out without making a mess in the truck.

 

Just my 2 cents here. I have the vaccum booster and my brakes were **** also on my 03 ext cab regular bed... I decided to go with drilled and slotted rotors (stock size) and napas adaptive one pads.. Holy ****. You will go thru the windshield when you hit the brakes now. I was lucky to be able to kick in the anti locks on wet pavement before the rotors and pads.. Now its not a problem to lock them up on any pavement. Theres been times where I have abussed them quiet hard (running late for work).. Seems like the hotter they get, better they work. I can beat on them, get out and not even smell a hint of hot brakes. No warpage on any rotors either. Very happy with the upgrade. Im excited to see how well they perform after I do they hydroboost swap..

 

I can lock up the tires quiet easily, and they are sticky and 285 wide. Its just that I have to almost bottom out the pedal to do so.

I talked to the dealer today and they said to bleed the master and calipers first, then do the ABS bleed. However I am wondering, where does the air go that the ABS bleed is meant to get rid of? I was thinking that it went into the lines and then the calipers were bled to remove it. The dealer couldn't answer this for me.