GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

ECSB 4WD 4l60E to 4l80E

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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Rafedial
very good information...

you make it look easy. If I had all this info I wouldn't have gone with a 6 speed and 2wd when my 60E broke, honestly. Your lucky finding a cherry 4WD 80E for a grand. LS1truck 60E to 80E has some great info but yours is more detailed and organized, especially for the 4WD.
Looked for a long time for the 80e and you're right I think a grand for basically a new transmission is a good deal. Just kept bidding on the low mile 80e's on e-bay. This was priced at 1300 buy now or best offer. I offered 900 and he took it. Course it still hasn't been proven to work I'm done with the easier parts. Now the work comes. I'm a little bit worried about swapping the input shaft in the transfer case. Reminds me I need to get some good snap ring pliers.

Originally Posted by nonnieselman
That lil fart right there took me forever to get right...
That little bugger was a pain. Grind a little. Grind a little more.... hmmm thats to much grinding on that end. Lets grind the other end. Hope its right.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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Do you to do a wright up on a 2002 silverado 60E to 80E, I can supply you a truck and a trans. jfwu awsome wright up!
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Cross member is done. May add some bracing. May not.



Still need to order a converter and get a plan on the drive shafts.
I'd highly doubt you'd need it...but I have to admit, I'd probably put a little mini cross brace on each side, little 90*'s. I know that flat metal is strong turned sideways, but man it just looks like a weak spot you know. Killer man...looking killer!
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by chevytruck
Do you to do a wright up on a 2002 silverado 60E to 80E, I can supply you a truck and a trans. jfwu awsome wright up!
Thanks, keep checking back. Much more to come.

Originally Posted by dewmanshu
I'd highly doubt you'd need it...but I have to admit, I'd probably put a little mini cross brace on each side, little 90*'s. I know that flat metal is strong turned sideways, but man it just looks like a weak spot you know. Killer man...looking killer!
Agree, it does look weak but you gotta handle it. Not that I'm not going to re-enforce it but may wait till I put it back together and see.
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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One of the last pieces of the puzzle arrived today. Precision Industries, Vigilante, 3 disk, 10.5", 2800. LS1 style so should bolt up to my existing SFI flexplate without a spacer.

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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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yep looks just like mine and theres no need to brace the cross member thats more than strong enough.
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 05:39 PM
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Was viewing your thread here and saw a couple things you might want to look at again. The hole drilled here looks small. If I remember correctly it should be a 3/16 hole. It looked small in the picture just thought I would point it out for you.

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Here is your picture of the accumulator pistons when you took it apart. Notice where the yellow spring is. The longer of the two springs in a factory set up always on the accumulator piston not using the pin. I believe this is the 3rd accumulator.

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Here is how you reinstalled it with the supplied 3rd accumulator spring from transgo. Notice where the yellow spring is. I do not think it is supposed to be used in this location and also is the wrong spring. I think you should double check this step.

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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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Vince thanks so much! Good catch.

I've looked at it again with the rest of my pictures and the trango instructions. I think the hole is the right size but you are right the 4th accum spring is wrong. I have to tear into it again to do the pump mod for the PI converter so I'll fix this.

I'm sure I'll look at it 2 or 3 more times but I think this is right tonight.
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 10:30 PM
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Not a problem. After 19 years of staring at this stuff I have learned a thing or two. Take a look at the hole I pointed out. I believe the directions call for a 3/16-.196 hole. It looks like you used a .120-1/8 bit. I normally start with one of the small bits supplied and work my way up to the largest one. Makes it a little easier to drill that hole on an angle and also helps you stay off the valve body gasket surface. Nice pic's by the way.
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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I will check the hole of course. If that one is wrong so is the other one. I used the bits they provided but didn't measure them. Did start with a smaller bit then stepped up. Also punched it. It was hard to do that hole and stay off the VB seal surface.
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