Budget brake upgrade for 2000 Silverado. (05+ front, SUV rear)
Oct 6, 2014 | 02:36 PM
#72
That's what I was thinking. I looked up a few adjustables last week. I'm going to see if anyone else chimes in with this issue then move forward with the prop valve. I would think others that did this would of run into the same problem. Also, I swear I read a thread on this "upgrade" and one poster said the prop valves were all the same.
Maybe you still have a little air in there???
Your Prop Vv could be hooped too..who knows.
Oct 6, 2014 | 04:24 PM
#73
Originally Posted by Atomic
............but it does make doing a burnout difficult.
LMFAO.. Yeah burning out WHICH TIRES?? The rears or the fronts? I've seen your videos.. With 1000hp on tap I find it hard to believe you have a problem doing a burnout.. LOL
Oct 6, 2014 | 07:32 PM
#74
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Yea, well, youll notice I edit out my pathetic burnout attempts of the videos I post 
Its hard to control because left foot is holding the brakes, right foot is gas, and right hand is trying to move the shifter from 1 to 3 after it builds enough boost to spin the tires, and left hand is trying to keep it straight. All while trying to avoid the rev limiter and/or letting off while its still in 2nd. So yea its kind of tricky.
Its hard to control because left foot is holding the brakes, right foot is gas, and right hand is trying to move the shifter from 1 to 3 after it builds enough boost to spin the tires, and left hand is trying to keep it straight. All while trying to avoid the rev limiter and/or letting off while its still in 2nd. So yea its kind of tricky.
Oct 7, 2014 | 12:10 PM
#78
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Well not nesecarily....ABS treats the back tires as a single tire, and the fronts seperately. If the system is working properly, the tires will never lock and stay locked. You get the greatest stopping power right before tires start to slide, so the system tries to keep it there constantly. The pulsing you feel in the pedal is the abs pump modulating pressure to keep the calipers from locking up.
Oct 9, 2014 | 12:00 AM
#79
I did this on mine and eliminated the abs as well. Put an adjustable proportioning valve on the line to the rears. With all stainless hoses and a hydroboost swap my brakes are amazing! Worth every penny
Oct 10, 2014 | 10:15 PM
#80
It's important to have the proper size tire calibration in your vehicle as well. The ABS can go off too soon or not soon enough if you don't have the correct calibration. It will also affect the transmission shift points if not set properly as well as you speedometer.
This has to be done with a high end Scan Tool or a Tech 2 as Normal Programing software can not access the ABS module. This is separate from the tune in the PCM.
Of course if you eliminate the ABS then you don't need to mess with it.
This has to be done with a high end Scan Tool or a Tech 2 as Normal Programing software can not access the ABS module. This is separate from the tune in the PCM.
Of course if you eliminate the ABS then you don't need to mess with it.