99-07 4WD Front Coilover Conversion
Jul 30, 2015 | 03:30 PM
#201
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
If the lower control arm is for torsion bars, then yes my brackets will bolt right on and it will be very easy.
If you have a 2wd you are converting to 4wd then it may be a little harder...
If you have a 2wd you are converting to 4wd then it may be a little harder...
Jul 30, 2015 | 04:25 PM
#202
I have both sets of a arms. Can you pm me a price for what I need to swap this? 4wd a arms is what I'll use
Nov 14, 2015 | 05:20 PM
#203
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
I have been working on a way for guys to go lower or to use a longer shock, and have revisited the stud top option from QA1. I ordered a 1.5" rod of poly and had some custom washers made to support it, and this is the result:
The bushing is a hard material and will not deform under the weight, but will give enough to allow the shock to pivot when the suspension cycles. I used a test piece and put it in my 20ton press and it compressed some, but did not explode or deform, even when I loaded it unevenly. In the uneven loading it bent the washers but did not destroy the bushing, so I feel pretty good about it.
More importantly, doing this takes off 1.5" of distance on the "main measurement". That is additional travel that can be had by using a longer shock, or another 3" of drop at the wheel. So the lowest I think you can go with this will be a 5-6" drop from stock height. This is very low and your cv angles will be very negative and youll probably want to flip the tie rods and get some camber adjusters, but those are easy things if you want to go that low. This is all on stock LCA, UCA, and spindle. My brackets can be used with a drop spindle for even more drop!
I will be selling the bushing kits in combination with the lowers only, or with the full normal kit. I have also updated my spreadsheet to more accurately reflect the possible combinations. I will update the first post in the link in my sig to Purchase 4WD coilover brackets with pricing.
Let me know if you have any questions!
The bushing is a hard material and will not deform under the weight, but will give enough to allow the shock to pivot when the suspension cycles. I used a test piece and put it in my 20ton press and it compressed some, but did not explode or deform, even when I loaded it unevenly. In the uneven loading it bent the washers but did not destroy the bushing, so I feel pretty good about it.
More importantly, doing this takes off 1.5" of distance on the "main measurement". That is additional travel that can be had by using a longer shock, or another 3" of drop at the wheel. So the lowest I think you can go with this will be a 5-6" drop from stock height. This is very low and your cv angles will be very negative and youll probably want to flip the tie rods and get some camber adjusters, but those are easy things if you want to go that low. This is all on stock LCA, UCA, and spindle. My brackets can be used with a drop spindle for even more drop!
I will be selling the bushing kits in combination with the lowers only, or with the full normal kit. I have also updated my spreadsheet to more accurately reflect the possible combinations. I will update the first post in the link in my sig to Purchase 4WD coilover brackets with pricing.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Nov 14, 2015 | 05:58 PM
#204
I have been working on a way for guys to go lower or to use a longer shock, and have revisited the stud top option from QA1. I ordered a 1.5" rod of poly and had some custom washers made to support it, and this is the result:
The bushing is a hard material and will not deform under the weight, but will give enough to allow the shock to pivot when the suspension cycles. I used a test piece and put it in my 20ton press and it compressed some, but did not explode or deform, even when I loaded it unevenly. In the uneven loading it bent the washers but did not destroy the bushing, so I feel pretty good about it.
More importantly, doing this takes off 1.5" of distance on the "main measurement". That is additional travel that can be had by using a longer shock, or another 3" of drop at the wheel. So the lowest I think you can go with this will be a 5-6" drop from stock height. This is very low and your cv angles will be very negative and youll probably want to flip the tie rods and get some camber adjusters, but those are easy things if you want to go that low. This is all on stock LCA, UCA, and spindle. My brackets can be used with a drop spindle for even more drop!
I will be selling the bushing kits in combination with the lowers only, or with the full normal kit. I have also updated my spreadsheet to more accurately reflect the possible combinations. I will update the first post in the link in my sig to Purchase 4WD coilover brackets with pricing.
Let me know if you have any questions!
The bushing is a hard material and will not deform under the weight, but will give enough to allow the shock to pivot when the suspension cycles. I used a test piece and put it in my 20ton press and it compressed some, but did not explode or deform, even when I loaded it unevenly. In the uneven loading it bent the washers but did not destroy the bushing, so I feel pretty good about it.
More importantly, doing this takes off 1.5" of distance on the "main measurement". That is additional travel that can be had by using a longer shock, or another 3" of drop at the wheel. So the lowest I think you can go with this will be a 5-6" drop from stock height. This is very low and your cv angles will be very negative and youll probably want to flip the tie rods and get some camber adjusters, but those are easy things if you want to go that low. This is all on stock LCA, UCA, and spindle. My brackets can be used with a drop spindle for even more drop!
I will be selling the bushing kits in combination with the lowers only, or with the full normal kit. I have also updated my spreadsheet to more accurately reflect the possible combinations. I will update the first post in the link in my sig to Purchase 4WD coilover brackets with pricing.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Take a look into the Ridetech upper stud mounts instead. They use a delrin type ball bushing that gets sandwiched. I like them way better than the QA1's I had.
But, I'd still be a bit skeptical of them supporting the weight and damping load of a full size truck...
Nov 14, 2015 | 06:18 PM
#205
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Yea I have seen that before, but I dont think those will work with QA1 shocks. You could probably use ridetech shocks, but I havent used them personally. As long as they use a 1/2" bolt on the lower mount you can really use whatever you want. I like the QA1s because they offer very good performance at a more affordable price than the ridetechs.
Dec 18, 2015 | 09:31 PM
#206
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
hey atomic, ive read this entire thread but i cant get the parts list to open, it keeps saying retry. i own a 2003 sierra 1500hd and want to do the conversion, can you pm me some info and pricing please, and shipping quote to edmonton alberta canada
Dec 19, 2015 | 07:52 AM
#207
I have two more questions I have thought of since last time I messaged.
1. Would installing this kit negatively affect the vehicles tow rating?
2. I got all new electronic shocks for the Z55 ride control about 3 years ago. $$$$. Obviously I would lose the (magnetic?) ride abilities if I change over. But how good is the Z55 anyways? Sure the coilovers are better than the regular suspension but are they better than Z55? When I take these electronic shocks out, I will have to put in a dummy resistor or something. They are out there on the market. But will not having the electronic shock involved hurt traction control or stabilitrac?
1. Would installing this kit negatively affect the vehicles tow rating?
2. I got all new electronic shocks for the Z55 ride control about 3 years ago. $$$$. Obviously I would lose the (magnetic?) ride abilities if I change over. But how good is the Z55 anyways? Sure the coilovers are better than the regular suspension but are they better than Z55? When I take these electronic shocks out, I will have to put in a dummy resistor or something. They are out there on the market. But will not having the electronic shock involved hurt traction control or stabilitrac?
Dec 19, 2015 | 09:01 AM
#208
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
I also took a screenshot of the parts list from the spreadsheet,
I have two more questions I have thought of since last time I messaged.
1. Would installing this kit negatively affect the vehicles tow rating?
2. I got all new electronic shocks for the Z55 ride control about 3 years ago. $$$$. Obviously I would lose the (magnetic?) ride abilities if I change over. But how good is the Z55 anyways? Sure the coilovers are better than the regular suspension but are they better than Z55? When I take these electronic shocks out, I will have to put in a dummy resistor or something. They are out there on the market. But will not having the electronic shock involved hurt traction control or stabilitrac?
1. Would installing this kit negatively affect the vehicles tow rating?
2. I got all new electronic shocks for the Z55 ride control about 3 years ago. $$$$. Obviously I would lose the (magnetic?) ride abilities if I change over. But how good is the Z55 anyways? Sure the coilovers are better than the regular suspension but are they better than Z55? When I take these electronic shocks out, I will have to put in a dummy resistor or something. They are out there on the market. But will not having the electronic shock involved hurt traction control or stabilitrac?
2. I am really not familar with the Z55 package so I won't be much help with info on that unfortunately. If the electronic control is just for shock stiffness I think you would be hard pressed to tell a difference in traction control performance.
Dec 19, 2015 | 09:15 AM
#209
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Creedmoor, NC
It's probably the same as the Z66 on the Avalanche. It's a ride height/ load leveling system with Bilstein air shocks. You could possibly use shock extenders and tweak the sensor to read the new ride height.
I used some TJM extenders to keep my Bilstein 5100's. It let me keep a longer travel shock in the rear...
I used some TJM extenders to keep my Bilstein 5100's. It let me keep a longer travel shock in the rear...
Dec 19, 2015 | 02:20 PM
#210
Yes, it just controls the shock stiffness. Honestly, I can't really tell the difference between my "autoride" truck and any other Classic body style GMT I have ever driven. It is supposed to be some super awesome system though.