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6 speed on a 6.0l?

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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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From: saint charles
Default 6 speed on a 6.0l?

has anyone tried this? Im thinking about doing it but I little nervous.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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I wanted to but no one would even talk to me after I mentioned the all wheel drive hehe
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Its an idea that I wanted to do, but knowbody wants to help me in doing it.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:12 PM
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https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=354120

Also do a search on 1TRUESS 's posts. he has done the swap as well. I am in the middle of doing it myself. I have no good info to input other than what is on the above.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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That thread doesn't even talk about half of it. There are a lot of details that aren't/ couldn't be included in that thread. I have a **** ton of pics, that speak for themselves about some of the things I had to go through. PM retsell, 1TRUESS, TURBO8 or me, we've all suffered through the auto to manual swap. It matters what year and configuration your truck is too. Different years have different x-members. 4.8 manuals have a different crank that requires a 0.75" spacer (PM xrev1x). EC's have a 2 piece drive shaft and a rear seat ac vent that runs right where the hole needs to be cut. Oh yeah, and you can't cheap out on the clutch either. If your truck is AWD or 4WD, forget it unless you're willing to fund Keisler to do some serious work. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be cheap.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
That thread doesn't even talk about half of it. There are a lot of details that aren't/ couldn't be included in that thread. I have a **** ton of pics, that speak for themselves about some of the things I had to go through. PM retsell, 1TRUESS, TURBO8 or me, we've all suffered through the auto to manual swap. It matters what year and configuration your truck is too. Different years have different x-members. 4.8 manuals have a different crank that requires a 0.75" spacer (PM xrev1x). EC's have a 2 piece drive shaft and a rear seat ac vent that runs right where the hole needs to be cut. Oh yeah, and you can't cheap out on the clutch either. If your truck is AWD or 4WD, forget it unless you're willing to fund Keisler to do some serious work. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be cheap.
I have a 01 2500hd 6.0l/4l80e 2wd reg cab. Im still up in the air about what path Im going to go but i want to getsome advice on the swap. I think its a 98-02 ls1 flywheel and clutch set up. will that work?
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
That thread doesn't even talk about half of it. There are a lot of details that aren't/ couldn't be included in that thread. I have a **** ton of pics, that speak for themselves about some of the things I had to go through. PM retsell, 1TRUESS, TURBO8 or me, we've all suffered through the auto to manual swap. It matters what year and configuration your truck is too. Different years have different x-members. 4.8 manuals have a different crank that requires a 0.75" spacer (PM xrev1x). EC's have a 2 piece drive shaft and a rear seat ac vent that runs right where the hole needs to be cut. Oh yeah, and you can't cheap out on the clutch either. If your truck is AWD or 4WD, forget it unless you're willing to fund Keisler to do some serious work. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be cheap.
Not all the 4.8 5 spds have the longer crank. My 05 doesn't. I think they swaped to the normal length cranks with 4.8 5 speed the same time they did the 6.0's(2001?). From the best I can tell, this is also the time they swapped to the tremec tr3450 trans from the New Venture NV3500.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by whitewhale01
I have a 01 2500hd 6.0l/4l80e 2wd reg cab. Im still up in the air about what path Im going to go but i want to getsome advice on the swap. I think its a 98-02 ls1 flywheel and clutch set up. will that work?
Ther is no way I would install an Fbody trans in a 2500HD truck, esp. since it has the 4l80e allready. That 2500HD is wayy to heavy of a truck IMO. The T45(edit I mean T56) is rated for 400 lb/ft of torque in a 3400 lb car so, I think you would brea 1 really quick in a 5500 lb truck.
You would have to look at a Viper spec T56 at the very least, FLP sells their Level 5 T56.

I could get away with 1 in my 4000 lb truck, but the trans. torque rating will go WAY down when the vehicle weight goes up.

peace
Hog

Last edited by hog; Jan 19, 2006 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
Not all the 4.8 5 spds have the longer crank. My 05 doesn't. I think they swaped to the normal length cranks with 4.8 5 speed the same time they did the 6.0's(2001?). From the best I can tell, this is also the time they swapped to the tremec tr3450 trans from the New Venture NV3500.
Your probably right, that makes sense. Unfortunatley its one of those things that you might not find out without tearing into it. I know I was a little nervous just knowing the fact that 2 4.8 cranks existed.

Originally Posted by whitewhale01
I have a 01 2500hd 6.0l/4l80e 2wd reg cab.
You're correct on the 98-02 f-body trans. You'll need the bell housing and and flywheel/PP/clutch too. I went with an aftermarket clutch and billet flywheel, because a stock clutch wouldn't last long. Especially since your truck's an HD and a 6.0. Get the 01-02 slave cylinder as they're a better design than the earlier ones.
-98-02 T56 and bellhousing. Go to ls1tech.com in their classified section. There are always a few for sale in there in various conditions.
-Clutch, PP, flywheel and roller pilot bearing
-99-up truck clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly (I used an 04 w/3mi on it)
-There's a dimple on the firewall where you need to drill a 2.5" hole so the master can go through
-I also had to fab up a nut plate so I could mount the pedal assembly.
-f-body hyd. clutch master cylinder S/S braided line. This will need to be extended about 18". Any hyd. hose shop can do this. I was going to use the truck line, but the dealer won't sell it w/o the master. In retrospect I would just buy a new master/line assembly from a truck. It would've probably been cheaper.
-5spd truck x-member (I have one if you want it. I didn't use it b/c my truck has the older style x-member, so I just fab'd one up.)
-You might get lucky on the driveshaft. I have a 2-piece so I had room to play.
-My VSS pluged right in, but the back up light switch will need to be wired. I'm not sure about your 80E though as I think those have 2 VSS's.
A custom tune will be needed, but Allen Nelson does this.

PM me your email if you want me to send any pics of some of the specifics. It wasn't too hard if you're dedicated to it. It took me about 2 weeks of wrench time. I worked on it after work and on the 2 weekends. Honestly the hardest part was getting all the parts and hardware squared away.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 01:27 AM
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Hog is right about the T56 in stock form. They're great in a light car, but in a truck, well... But like I said about ls1tech's classified, there are some there in various conditions from stock to pro-shifted 1000hp units. I didn't go with a stock one, but I bet even an aftermarket clutch would go before a stock T56. Driving habits have a lot to do with it too. Slicks don't help either. Check out T56rebuilds.com. He's a sponsor at ls1tech and the rebuild prices aren't nothing compared to a similarly durable auto.
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