6 speed on a 6.0l?
has anyone tried this? Im thinking about doing it but I little nervous.
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I wanted to but no one would even talk to me after I mentioned the all wheel drive hehe
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Its an idea that I wanted to do, but knowbody wants to help me in doing it.
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https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=354120
Also do a search on 1TRUESS 's posts. he has done the swap as well. I am in the middle of doing it myself. I have no good info to input other than what is on the above. |
That thread doesn't even talk about half of it. There are a lot of details that aren't/ couldn't be included in that thread. I have a shit ton of pics, that speak for themselves about some of the things I had to go through. PM retsell, 1TRUESS, TURBO8 or me, we've all suffered through the auto to manual swap. :drive: It matters what year and configuration your truck is too. Different years have different x-members. 4.8 manuals have a different crank that requires a 0.75" spacer (PM xrev1x). EC's have a 2 piece drive shaft and a rear seat ac vent that runs right where the hole needs to be cut. Oh yeah, and you can't cheap out on the clutch either. :) If your truck is AWD or 4WD, forget it unless you're willing to fund Keisler to do some serious work. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be cheap. :)
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
That thread doesn't even talk about half of it. There are a lot of details that aren't/ couldn't be included in that thread. I have a shit ton of pics, that speak for themselves about some of the things I had to go through. PM retsell, 1TRUESS, TURBO8 or me, we've all suffered through the auto to manual swap. :drive: It matters what year and configuration your truck is too. Different years have different x-members. 4.8 manuals have a different crank that requires a 0.75" spacer (PM xrev1x). EC's have a 2 piece drive shaft and a rear seat ac vent that runs right where the hole needs to be cut. Oh yeah, and you can't cheap out on the clutch either. :) If your truck is AWD or 4WD, forget it unless you're willing to fund Keisler to do some serious work. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be cheap. :)
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
That thread doesn't even talk about half of it. There are a lot of details that aren't/ couldn't be included in that thread. I have a shit ton of pics, that speak for themselves about some of the things I had to go through. PM retsell, 1TRUESS, TURBO8 or me, we've all suffered through the auto to manual swap. :drive: It matters what year and configuration your truck is too. Different years have different x-members. 4.8 manuals have a different crank that requires a 0.75" spacer (PM xrev1x). EC's have a 2 piece drive shaft and a rear seat ac vent that runs right where the hole needs to be cut. Oh yeah, and you can't cheap out on the clutch either. :) If your truck is AWD or 4WD, forget it unless you're willing to fund Keisler to do some serious work. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be cheap. :)
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Originally Posted by whitewhale01
I have a 01 2500hd 6.0l/4l80e 2wd reg cab. Im still up in the air about what path Im going to go but i want to getsome advice on the swap. I think its a 98-02 ls1 flywheel and clutch set up. will that work?
You would have to look at a Viper spec T56 at the very least, FLP sells their Level 5 T56. I could get away with 1 in my 4000 lb truck, but the trans. torque rating will go WAY down when the vehicle weight goes up. peace Hog |
Originally Posted by mjhoward
Not all the 4.8 5 spds have the longer crank. My 05 doesn't. I think they swaped to the normal length cranks with 4.8 5 speed the same time they did the 6.0's(2001?). From the best I can tell, this is also the time they swapped to the tremec tr3450 trans from the New Venture NV3500.
Originally Posted by whitewhale01
I have a 01 2500hd 6.0l/4l80e 2wd reg cab.
-98-02 T56 and bellhousing. Go to ls1tech.com in their classified section. There are always a few for sale in there in various conditions. -Clutch, PP, flywheel and roller pilot bearing -99-up truck clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly (I used an 04 w/3mi on it) -There's a dimple on the firewall where you need to drill a 2.5" hole so the master can go through -I also had to fab up a nut plate so I could mount the pedal assembly. -f-body hyd. clutch master cylinder S/S braided line. This will need to be extended about 18". Any hyd. hose shop can do this. I was going to use the truck line, but the dealer won't sell it w/o the master. In retrospect I would just buy a new master/line assembly from a truck. It would've probably been cheaper. -5spd truck x-member (I have one if you want it. I didn't use it b/c my truck has the older style x-member, so I just fab'd one up.) -You might get lucky on the driveshaft. I have a 2-piece so I had room to play. -My VSS pluged right in, but the back up light switch will need to be wired. I'm not sure about your 80E though as I think those have 2 VSS's. A custom tune will be needed, but Allen Nelson does this. PM me your email if you want me to send any pics of some of the specifics. It wasn't too hard if you're dedicated to it. It took me about 2 weeks of wrench time. I worked on it after work and on the 2 weekends. Honestly the hardest part was getting all the parts and hardware squared away. :) |
Hog is right about the T56 in stock form. They're great in a light car, but in a truck, well... But like I said about ls1tech's classified, there are some there in various conditions from stock to pro-shifted 1000hp units. I didn't go with a stock one, but I bet even an aftermarket clutch would go before a stock T56. Driving habits have a lot to do with it too. Slicks don't help either. Check out T56rebuilds.com. He's a sponsor at ls1tech and the rebuild prices aren't nothing compared to a similarly durable auto.
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