Just something keeping me up at night I want to run by you guys and Vince@FLT if he stops by this thread.

I am installing the full transgo HD2 kit in my 4l80e. Ive gotten to maybe the 3rd step or whatever it is, where you take the O-ring off the actuator filter, put a new oring on that blockoff plug, put the filter screen ontop of that, and install the new end plug. They say in the pamphlet and in the video to file it slightly if the plug hole wont line up. I had to grind the hell out of mine, so far that the top 'rim' of the filter is gone completely and the frayed edges of the fabric are visible. I have a spare filter in my rebuild kit, so no worries if I have to replace it. I am wondering though what the deal is. I made sure that end plug was seated really well too. Is this normal? What is that filter screen supposed to do if it's blocked off or...whatever its there for? I just need to know if I'm in trouble! lol Thanks!

 

I wound up grinding both ends of mine to get it to fit without getting into the screen. It is a bitch.

Here is a step by step I did on mine recently. When you look at the springs under the accumulators I screwed that part up... look further into the thread and I correct it.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...8&postcount=38

 

The bottom of it is very thin though, and I needed a LOT. I dont think grinding the bottom would do enough. I would grind it to the point where there would be no bottom; open on both ends. Tradeoff.

 

That screen deal can be a real pain in the ***. I usually use a bench grinder to file it down and then make sure to get all the burs off it before installing it. I to have ground both ends in some cases. Make sure that the plug that you installed first is fully seated. Sometimes I use a small hammer and a socket to lightly tap it in place. As long as the screen material is still attached to the plastic base I believe you will be ok. Just make sure to get the burs off and blow it out with some air to make sure it's clean. Vince

 

Well vince, the bottom end of the screen thing is attached (the former o-ring end) It just basically has no top on it. Using KySilverados picture, and rough editing to give you an idea:



*IF* I can get that roll pin back out, i will check the end plug and give it a tap and make double sure thats the deal. I was just wondering about filing the base end, since the pamphlet says 'file this end lightly' so i was like dang, i need more clearance and im already down a good ways. I dont have a belt sander but I do have a dremel with the sander tip which i clamped to my bench and then sanded the thing with and kept moving to keep a level sanding. I gotta make do with what I got haha

 

As long as you got the roll pin in I would say you are good to go. I did not know that you got that far. So I would say that you got the first plug in all the way. Vince

 

Not that I question you, because you undoubtedly know way more about trans's than I do, but are you sure that its okay to have that ragged edge of fabric where that top part in red used to be hooked on? lol I guess Im bent out of shape about it (no pun intended) It seems like the fluid it should be filtering could just push that screen material in and go around or something...Of course I dont know the flow of the thing; just using logic.

 

That screen is a nightmare and IMO the worst part of the whole shift kit install. I ruined the old one getting it out and it never said anything about needing a new one but they do intend these kits to be installed during a rebuild so I guess its nobody's fault there. I had to grind both ends of the filter pretty extensivly and the plug as well. Also the hole in the plug wasn't exactly true but I got it to fit where I felt confident it would all work. So far so good.

 

Eh, it actually does tell you that it needs to be in good shape or it needs to be replaced (in the video portion of the instructions). In the end, I had to work the hole in the end plug a tiny bit too, maybe mine wasnt true either? I will try grinding the replacement screen on both ends and TRY to get that roll pin out and swap it out if possible. You have comforted me, OldRed95, by saying that is the worst part of the install process!

 

I guess I might add for those putting these shift kits into high mileage 4L80E's it wouldn't be a bad idea to inspect the TCC and AFL valves. They are prone to wear just like the PWM valve on the 4L60E's and you get fluid pressure loss which leads to loss of holding power, soft shifts, seemingly neautrals when at highway speeds, no lockup and so on. I had to pull my valve body back off to have the new transgo TCC and AFL valves put in and it fixed it.