4l80e conversion on a 96 suburban 5.7 4wd
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4l80e conversion on a 96 suburban 5.7 4wd
i just bought a suburban yesterday, and the owner claims the 4l60e was just rebuilt (at a local shop, i know the owner) and has less than 600 miles on it. I drove the truck 45 miles home, and about 3 miles from home it lost 3rd and 4th gear. Im sure i could get the 60e fixed for pretty cheap, but since i plan on towing a car and trailer it might be better to do a 80e swap.
I know i will need a 4l80e (kind of necessary), a transfer case (or an adaptor for the stock case?), and possibly some driveshaft modification.
is it easiest to just locate a 4l80e w/transfer case from a 2500 truck/suburban? obviously if i could get the driveshafts as well everything should bolt in like factory, right? then i would just need to weld up a crossmember and do the wiring and trans tune?
I know i will need a 4l80e (kind of necessary), a transfer case (or an adaptor for the stock case?), and possibly some driveshaft modification.
is it easiest to just locate a 4l80e w/transfer case from a 2500 truck/suburban? obviously if i could get the driveshafts as well everything should bolt in like factory, right? then i would just need to weld up a crossmember and do the wiring and trans tune?
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I have located a 4l80e w/ 93k miles, with transfer case and driveshafts, from a 95 k2500 5.7 sclb pickup.
From doing a bit of searching on here, i just need the 447 front u-joint, the 534g rear u-joint, and this flexplate: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-z167/overview/
With these parts this is ready to bolt in, correct? Except for welding the crossmember (no problem), and the rear driveshaft possibly needing to be shortened (friend owns a shop locally).
What company would you guys recommend for the segment swap in the trans computer?
From doing a bit of searching on here, i just need the 447 front u-joint, the 534g rear u-joint, and this flexplate: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-z167/overview/
With these parts this is ready to bolt in, correct? Except for welding the crossmember (no problem), and the rear driveshaft possibly needing to be shortened (friend owns a shop locally).
What company would you guys recommend for the segment swap in the trans computer?
Last edited by Ieatpeople; 04-23-2014 at 05:51 PM.
#3
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A 2500 and 1500 share a similar frame. However the IFS is different. The front and rear differentials are also different. That may play a role in the driveshaft length for front and rear.
I am not familiar with the older ECU's. You might need to swap to at least a 98-99 unit to have flashing capabilities. I believe the earlier units may still have a removable prom chip.
You will also need to wire in and additional VSS sensor for the 4L80E
I am not familiar with the older ECU's. You might need to swap to at least a 98-99 unit to have flashing capabilities. I believe the earlier units may still have a removable prom chip.
You will also need to wire in and additional VSS sensor for the 4L80E
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A 2500 and 1500 share a similar frame. However the IFS is different. The front and rear differentials are also different. That may play a role in the driveshaft length for front and rear.
I am not familiar with the older ECU's. You might need to swap to at least a 98-99 unit to have flashing capabilities. I believe the earlier units may still have a removable prom chip.
You will also need to wire in and additional VSS sensor for the 4L80E
I am not familiar with the older ECU's. You might need to swap to at least a 98-99 unit to have flashing capabilities. I believe the earlier units may still have a removable prom chip.
You will also need to wire in and additional VSS sensor for the 4L80E
to clarify: the stock driveshaft from the 1500 may bolt the the new transfer case, but it will be 1.5" short. the 2500 front shaft has the additional length needed.
The rear driveshaft will probably need some modification, unless the wheelbase is the same on both trucks. Either way the 534g conversion u-joint is needed to mate the k2500shaft to the k1500 diff.
The trans and transfer case i am getting comes with the entire harness except for the computer, so i will have the second vss, plug, and all the wire i need to install it.
for the computer, i have sent an email to blackbear to see if they can handle the tuning i require.
#6
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A 2500 and 1500 share a similar frame. However the IFS is different. The front and rear differentials are also different. That may play a role in the driveshaft length for front and rear.
I am not familiar with the older ECU's. You might need to swap to at least a 98-99 unit to have flashing capabilities. I believe the earlier units may still have a removable prom chip.
You will also need to wire in and additional VSS sensor for the 4L80E
I am not familiar with the older ECU's. You might need to swap to at least a 98-99 unit to have flashing capabilities. I believe the earlier units may still have a removable prom chip.
You will also need to wire in and additional VSS sensor for the 4L80E
#7
Custm2500's Rude Friend
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for the driveshaft, i located a driveshaft length chart which covers both the donor and recipient vehicle. The k2500 front driveshaft is the correct length, but needs the 744 conversion u-joint to bolt to the k1500 front diff.
to clarify: the stock driveshaft from the 1500 may bolt the the new transfer case, but it will be 1.5" short. the 2500 front shaft has the additional length needed.
The rear driveshaft will probably need some modification, unless the wheelbase is the same on both trucks. Either way the 534g conversion u-joint is needed to mate the k2500shaft to the k1500 diff.
The trans and transfer case i am getting comes with the entire harness except for the computer, so i will have the second vss, plug, and all the wire i need to install it.
for the computer, i have sent an email to blackbear to see if they can handle the tuning i require.
to clarify: the stock driveshaft from the 1500 may bolt the the new transfer case, but it will be 1.5" short. the 2500 front shaft has the additional length needed.
The rear driveshaft will probably need some modification, unless the wheelbase is the same on both trucks. Either way the 534g conversion u-joint is needed to mate the k2500shaft to the k1500 diff.
The trans and transfer case i am getting comes with the entire harness except for the computer, so i will have the second vss, plug, and all the wire i need to install it.
for the computer, i have sent an email to blackbear to see if they can handle the tuning i require.
The Difference between the 10 bolt 8.5/8.625 and the 14 bolt 9.5 Semi floater is 5/8 of an inch. I am sure the Full Floater 10.5 and the 11.5 are even longer.
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since my truck has push-button 4wd (but not auto) it has the np243 transfer case right?
the transfer case that comes with my 4l80e is a np241. i know that the spline count is different between the 60e and the 80e, so i cant re-use my np243 without changing the input shaft.
which is the better choice? keep the electric shift, or convert to floor shift?
my 2010 silverado was floor shift, it didnt bother me.
my suburban is currently electric shift, and i keep hearing about all the issues with the wiring, the tccm, the actuator, and the buttons themselves going bad.
anybody have a floor shifter and lever for sale?
the transfer case that comes with my 4l80e is a np241. i know that the spline count is different between the 60e and the 80e, so i cant re-use my np243 without changing the input shaft.
which is the better choice? keep the electric shift, or convert to floor shift?
my 2010 silverado was floor shift, it didnt bother me.
my suburban is currently electric shift, and i keep hearing about all the issues with the wiring, the tccm, the actuator, and the buttons themselves going bad.
anybody have a floor shifter and lever for sale?
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i picked up my 80e w/ t-case on friday night. i guess in a week or two i will drop it off to get rebuilt, until then im going to start taking measurements to see how much drivesshaft work i will need to do.
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