I'm getting ready to in stall my FLT lvl5 4l65 soon, There has got to be a how to guide on this site somewhere but I can't find it. I found the TC installation guide thread by FLT so that should help.

I will be doing this with jack stands and a tranny lift.


For the 4x4 guys...do I have to take the torsion springs out... how about the tcase.... should I leave it in or take that out with the tranny?

Thanks!

 

Your torsion bars don't have to go anywhere... And I've always dropped the trans and transfer case as one unit... The trans should be a direct bolt in swap unless you got a vacuum modulator, in which case its just one cut and 'T' into the main brake booster hose...good luck, and enjoy that magnificent piece of craftsmanship in your truck. Post up if you run into any snags.

 

Good luck on your swap! No the t-bars do not have to come out. I usually am the only one around when I need to remove my trans so I remove the T-case first to make it a little lighter. Getting at the t-case to tranny bolts is a little harder this way though

 

I've installed and removed the units both ways. Transfer case on and off. It is much easier to do with the transfer case off. What I have run into is it is difficult to get the transfer case back up and in without damaging the gasket and adapter and it leaking. I've always split it at the rearward end. Might be easier doing the connection at the transmission side. It's just so dang awkward. At least with the torsion bars out and the torsion bar cross member out you might be able to get it on a jack or muscling it up in without damaging the gasket.

 

I just did a FLT level 5 last week myself. They included both the o-ring and the gasket for the t-case adapter.

Since this was my first drop, I went ahead and pulled the torsion bars. I wanted to be able to have as much working room as possible. I also dropped it with the t-case still attached as I wanted a good look at how everything went together before I split it apart. When putting it back I did them separate. Go ahead and put the adapter on the transmission and put it up - that way you can use the studs in the t-case to help with lining it up when you put it back in place.

Be extra careful with the torque converter. I thought I had mine in all the way (three clicks). Just to be paranoid I got out a yardstick and a ruler and checked the converter depth - I still had a 1/8" to go (and that's enough to kill the pump)! Got a bit more aggressive with it and then it slid home - had almost a 1/4" on the good side then.

Give yourself plenty of time, have fun, and enjoy the result!

 

What do you mean by split the case.. Do I have to split it open to remove it?... Does this mean I need to go buy gaskets?

how hard was it to remove the torsion bars... are they preloaded pretty heavy.. Do I need any tools to remove the torsion bars?

What should I mark on them aside from the bolt depths to assure i put them back in the right place?

Is there any special tools I need to take the t case and tranny out?

 

He's talking about separating the transfer case from the transmission. You've got the transmission, an "adapter" that's about 4 or 5 inches long (and is what the crossmember bolts to), and then the transfer case. FLT included both the o-ring for the transmission-to-adapter side and the gasket for the adapter-to-transfer case side. You'll want to take the adapter completely off and clean it thoroughly - I was amazed at how much crud had settled in there.

They're not too bad. What I did was scratch a line across the key to it's support crossmember - think of how the key rotates in place. When I put it back I just tightened the bolt until the lines matched again. To remove the key, take the adjustment bolt completely out. This will remove most of the pressure on the key. Then use a 2-jaw puller to push up on the on the key until the bar that the bolt screws into is loose - you'll see a detent in the key for just that purpose. Use a screwdriver to push the bar out - NEVER stick your finger in there just in case the puller lets go. Back off the puller and the key is now loose. You'll probably need to use a BFH to break the t-bar loose from the key. Once that's done everything pretty much just slides apart.

You've already got the tranny jack - that's the biggest thing. Pick up a couple of loooong extensions for doing the upper bellhousing bolts. 3ft or more total is good. Nothing special is required to separate the transfer case from the transmission. It just slides apart once you take the bolts loose.

But one thing I found out the hard way - no matter how well you drain the transmission, you're going to make a mess when you separate the two. There must have been the better part of a quart of fluid in that darned adapter! And then when you try to stop that from running everywhere by tilting the transfer case back then that blue autotrak fluid is going to start running out the tail! I was doing really well with containing any mess until that point...

 

Honestly man, if you have a buddy to give you a hand just drop the trans and transfer case as a whole. It's not hard. No need to touch the torsion bars either. A stubby 15mm open-ended will come in handy too for the bell housing bolts

 

Ratcheting box end FTW lol....

 

Any idea of tq specs when i reinstall the tranny? For example bell housing and drive shafts when i put them back on... I can always go with the ole "one turn tighter than you can" but that often turns back into one turn less than what breaks it....