i know its been covered before but id like some fresh advise....
this morning i start the truck up to go to work, it wasnt wanting to idle right, dropping down to 400rpm or so when sitting or coming to a complete stop. well after it hit running temp it seemed to be fine (maybe this was the idle speed sensor). After the idling became normal again, taking off from a stop in 1st it felt sluggish at normal acceleration, and feeling a big lag trying to go into 2nd gear, so i have been letting off so it will go into second. I've read a whole lot of 4l60e weakness and busting up the sunshell/output shaft. this afternoon on the way how i have normal idle but the 1st-2nd shifts are still hanging up and ive been letting off the gas to let it shift softly just cause im paranoid of that typical bang into 2nd and having a f'd up trans. any input? im thinking real hard about just buying the flt level3 and swaping before this one leaves me stranded. just lookin for some insight and advise, thanks!
btw its a 2004 rcsb 5.3, only trans mod is the vette servo. 122,000 miles.

 

I am no expert but I have ruined my fair share of 60's it sounds like the sun shell or some thing related to it dont waste any more money on 60's get an 80.

 

well id love to throw a 80e at the truck, but my thing is, this is no track truck (maybe one day when i have better income). i just wanna have a dependable dd that can get out of its own way with out breaking ****. it will eventually have a mild cam, and maybe a 2800 tc. I would do an 80e but i really just dont wanna get into modifying the driveshaft and trans crossmember and all that. This is my dd so timeframes in between swaps are kinda limited u know. thanks for the reply btw

 

also this is the stock trans in the truck..... and i am the 2nd owner, the first owner had it when he was 16 yrs old. so we can only imagine the abuse this rcsb 5.3 2wd has had on it lol

 

Honestly if your not going to be beating the **** out of it, or launching hard on slicks you should be fine. Especially a mild cam and boltons. The only problem I see is that it never stops at a mild build. If you got a junkyard 80e, mod the crossmember, and get your driveshaft modified, I don't see you spending as much or anymore than a built trans from any of the sponsors.
All in all I would tally up the costs and go from there. I believe a 60e will be fine though.

 

thanks@ MUDSLINGER. yea like i said before, this isnt going to be a track star, i really dont race the thing. im in school and work full time so i respect my truck alot right now bein that i drive 75 miles round trip a day. i don't intend it being on slicks or E/T's anytime soon, its my sole mode of transportation i just wanna have a good piece of mind knowing the trans underneath me will not break parts from everyday use and the occasional hard downshift to pass someone. i really like the specs i read on the FLT3 and think it would boost the confidence of my drivetrain. since i bought the truck last december i have felt a weak spot in the trans and i just wanna catch the bad before it leaves me high and dry. better safe than sorry! lol

 

Don't waste your money. A fully built 60e(not a lvl3) or an 80e is the only way to go. No need to change the driveshaft just use a shortened yoke and your good to go. Swapping to an 80e is easier and cheaper than you can imagine if done right.

 

I drive the Tahoe everyday , all the more reason for me to go with the 80 . I might just have bad luck with the 60's but The one in my 07 has held up with out any problems I have a buddy that went through 4 60's and a fully built 65 before he went to the 80 and his truck is stock but he tows a little with it

 

I'd spend the $1,500 on a performabuilt lvl1 trans and be done with it if you're not planning on doing any really radical mods. I went with the lvl2 when my trans died and I love it, only reason I went with the lvl2 is I plan on putting 400+ cubes in front of it eventually.